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  8 Do not overanalyze your swing.

  Your muscle memory will complete the swing for you if you cease to over-think it. Do not over-swing in an effort to hit the ball farther.

  9 Focus.

  Choose a single location on the fairway and aim at that spot.

  Be Aware

  • Spend time on the practice tee prior to hitting off the first tee. Go through six to eight clubs in your bag—start with wedges (they are easy to swing) and work your way up to woods. Visualize hitting off the first tee on your last 10 to 12 practice drives.

  • Golf is the culmination of physical, emotional, and mental preparedness. It is a game that begins and ends in both the body and the mind of the golfer. The first tee is the initial setting where you need to understand and accept the interrelation of these three elements.

  HOW TO RETRIEVE A BALL STUCK IN A TREE

  If your ball is lodged in a tree, you have the option to play it as it lies or declare it unplayable. No matter which decision you make, you will need to climb the tree to access the ball.

  1 Attempt to identify the ball from the ground.

  The rules require that a player identify his or her ball prior to hitting or moving it. You will save yourself a climb if you can determine from the ground that the ball is not yours.

  2 Determine if the tree is dead or alive.

  Do not climb dead trees—they are much more dangerous than living trees. A dead tree’s limbs may break unexpectedly.

  3 Survey the tree and surrounding area for hazards.

  Do not climb a tree that is touching or is intertwined with power lines. Look into the tree to determine if there are any animal nests near your ball. Although most animals will flee when you get close, squirrels protecting their nests and raccoons living in the hollow of a tree may be dangerous.

  4 Grab a branch at its base or “crotch.”

  The strongest and thickest part of the branch is the place it splits from the trunk. The farther you go out on the branch, the weaker it is. Be careful not to grab a dead branch.

  5 Use your legs, not your arms, to power yourself up the tree.

  Your arms should only guide your ascent.

  6 Maintain a three-point hold when you are in the tree.

  Make sure that three parts of your body are attached to or touching the tree at all times; for example, if both feet are on the trunk, have at least one hand on a branch above as you reach to go farther.

  7 If you need to rest, wrap your arms around the tree or a sturdy branch.

  Try to use your legs to support you, if possible, rather than your arms.

  8 Reach out to your ball.

  Either knock it to the ground or put it in your pocket.

  9 Begin your descent.

  Your arms should bear your weight on the way down. To increase your grip on the branches during your descent, turn your palms toward you when gripping the branches.

  10 Follow the same path to go down as you took when you went up.

  Be Aware

  • Buds or leaves on a tree indicate that it is living. Although the tree as a whole may be alive, you still need to watch for dead branches. Dead branches may be discolored compared to the rest of the tree and they may be missing their bark.

  • Do not climb a tree if you are alone. If you encounter problems, your partner might be able to assist you or find someone who can.

  • Cover your eyes with glasses or sunglasses prior to climbing, if possible. Twigs and branches may poke you. Wear a hardhat or baseball cap to help protect your head.

  • Do not climb a tree when it is raining or if the tree is wet. The tree will be slippery.

  The Rules

  If you shake the tree to get the ball down for the purpose of identifying it (before declaring it unplayable), you will incur a two-stroke penalty.

  If, before declaring your ball unplayable, you swing at a branch lower than where your ball sits and you move the ball, you have incurred a one-stroke penalty for moving your ball. You must replace the ball. You are not charged a stroke for the swing at the branch. If you cannot replace the ball, you must now declare the ball unplayable and add a stroke to your score.

  HOW TO RETRIEVE A BALL FROM A GOPHER HOLE

  1 Determine whether your ball is in a gopher hole.

  If you were able to see your ball land and you have checked that area carefully, look for a gopher hole. A gopher hole will be a well-groomed hole in the ground approximately two to three inches in diameter. There may be a cluster of gopher holes, especially if you are in the rough near the edge of the woods.

  2 Attempt to make visual contact with the ball.

  Do not put your hand down the hole. You do not know what is down there.

  3 If you see the ball, use your longest club to hook the ball and drag it toward the top of the hole.

  Use your two or three iron, a long club with a relatively small club head. A ball retriever, designed for water hazards, may also work.

  4 Pick up the ball with your other hand as it comes close to the top of the hole.

  5 Leave the area quickly.

  The animal you have disturbed may be angered by your invasion. While most animals are more afraid of you than you are of them, caution is always the best policy.

  Be Aware

  • A ball in the depths of a gopher hole is nearly impossible to see. Be sure to keep your eye on the ball if there are gopher holes on the course. Use at least two points of reference to mark where your ball lands.

  • The gopher’s burrow system may be linear or highly branched. A single burrow system may be up to 200 yards long. Underground tunnels are two to three inches in diameter and usually are 6 to 12 inches below the ground, but they may be more than six feet deep. You may need to use a flashlight to see within the complex maze.

  • Gophers have menacing upper and lower teeth that are always exposed. They also have strong forepaws with large claws. If you are bitten or clawed, seek medical attention immediately. Although gophers are normally shy, they will bite.

  The Rules

  Once you identify your ball, you must advise your fellow players that you will be lifting it. You can pick up your ball without a penalty and drop it at the nearest point of relief from where it lies. If you are not in a hazard, the nearest point of relief is one club length from the nearest location no closer to the hole that allows you to take your normal stance and swing. If you are in a hazard, you cannot remove the ball without taking a penalty stroke.

  If the ball is lost in the gopher hole, you may replace it without penalty. This is an exception to the general rule that a lost ball will cost you a stroke. The main question your opponents will have is whether there is reasonable evidence that your ball disappeared into a gopher hole rather than that the ball was lost elsewhere.

  HOW TO SCALE A FENCE TO RETRIEVE A BALL

  1 Look for a gate.

  If you cannot reach over, under, or through a fence to retrieve your ball, you will need to get to the other side. A nearby unlocked gate is the easiest means. If the gate is locked, the lock mechanism may serve as a good foothold.

  2 Look for the best part of the fence to scale.

  Assess the fence for hand- and footholds. Typically, fences will be either chain-link or slatted wood. Chain-link fences, the more common type, provide excellent hand- and footholds. If the fence is wood, look for a part of the fence with a support post (preferably on both sides).

  3 Assess the dangers of your landing area.

  If the ground on the other side of the fence slopes off, make sure you can see what is at the bottom of the slope. Look also for rocks, soft sand, thorns, mud, water, or other hazards that may jeopardize your safety during and after your landing. Look for signs of animals. Snakes, alligators, or guard dogs may lurk on the other side. Whistle, or shake the fence before you attempt to climb; an animal may reveal itself.

  4 Prepare to climb.

  Stretch. Take a few deep breaths. Remove articles of clothing or jewelry
that might get caught on the top of the fence.

  5 Grab the fence as high as you can reach.

  6 Establish a foothold.

  Try to get as much of your toe on the foothold (or inside it) without getting it wedged too tightly. Use the cleats in your golf shoes to clip onto the fence.

  7 Use your legs and feet to push yourself up.

  Maintain balance with your arms, and pull as needed. Your leg muscles are bigger and stronger than those in your arms. Your arms will tire more quickly, which may affect your ability to get back over the fence.

  8 When you reach the top, determine the best method for your descent.

  You may be able to climb down the fence in the same manner you ascended: place your feet over the fence first, finding a foothold that will support you as you lower yourself with your arms.

  Or

  Go over headfirst.

  Place your stomach on top of the fence, dip your head down, and swing your legs over and down. If the top of the fence is sharp or jagged, do not use this method.

  Or

  Jump.

  Golf shoes will not absorb the impact of a jump of any significant distance. Aim for a clear landing spot, deeply bend your knees on landing, and be prepared to roll. Roll to your strong side (i.e., if you are right-handed, roll to your right). Tuck your shoulder and continue to let yourself roll until you come to a stop naturally.

  9 Retrieve your ball.

  Place it in your pocket or toss it over the fence. Do not hold it in your hand as you climb back over.

  10 Repeat the process to return to the course side of the fence.

  Be Aware

  • A ball retriever can help you reach a ball lying just on the other side of the fence. If you do not carry a specially designed ball retriever, be cautious about reaching through a fence with a club: you could wind up losing the club as well as the ball.

  • Do not trespass. Although people living along a golf course may be used to people invading their land, trespassing is a crime, and a serious fence may be an indication that the owner will protect property rights.

  The Rule

  Hitting a ball out of bounds incurs a one-stroke penalty. The rule also states that you must hit your next shot from where you originally played the ball, not from where it landed. If you play your ball from its out of bounds position, you will be assessed a two-stroke penalty in stroke play and a loss-of-hole penalty in match play.

  HOW TO PLAY OUT OF A WATER TRAP

  1 Determine what is under your ball.

  Ascertain what is beneath the water and whether you are hitting off sand or a rock bed before you take the shot. Unknowingly swinging into a hard surface can do significant damage to your hands or wrists and your club.

  2 Calculate the ball’s depth.

  The more of the ball that is showing above the water line, the better. The reliability of executing this shot decreases considerably if the top of the ball is more than half an inch below the water line.

  3 Take off your shoes and socks.

  If you cannot stand on the bank, step into the water barefoot.

  4 Wear a raincoat or other foul-weather gear.

  There will be a large spray that may include mud.

  5 Grip the club firmly.

  Because the club will be moving through something with a high resistance—water—the club head will twist if you do not maintain a firm hold.

  6 Open the club head slightly.

  The club head will naturally close as the club moves through the water.

  7 Aim behind the ball.

  Play the shot as if the ball were buried in the sand. Hit the water approximately one ball length behind the ball. Do not be concerned about refraction of the light through the water; the ball is not deep enough for this to be a factor.

  8 Swing down and through the ball.

  Hit the ball hard. It will be the force of the water behind the ball that carries the ball out, not the impact with the club face itself.

  Be Aware

  • Going into or near the water may not be a good idea due to the possible presence of snakes, alligators, and other animals, particularly in natural water hazards. Courses along the ocean or deep lakes pose issues of general water safety. Check for posted signs throughout the course that warn of local hazards or dangerous animals.

  • Check the back of the scorecard for local rules that might apply to hitting out of the water.

  The Rule

  Your club cannot make contact with the water in the hazard prior to your shot. If contact is made, a two-stroke penalty will be assessed or in match play you will lose the hole.

  HOW TO PLAY OUT OF HIGH SAW GRASS

  Saw grass is a large plant (between four and ten feet tall) with flat, stiff, narrow leaf blades that have small, sharp sawteeth along the midribs. Often, dense saw grass will be out-of-bounds or in a hazard, but under some circumstances you may be able to play a ball that is nestled in saw grass.

  1 Determine if you are in a hazard.

  Look for hazard markers. The rules are stricter when hitting out of a hazard.

  2 Prepare to enter the grass.

  Wear gloves on both of your hands to avoid getting cut. Be sure to wear long pants to protect your legs. Spray any exposed areas on your arms and legs with bug repellent to avoid contact with insects (e.g., ticks, chiggers, etc.).

  3 Identify your ball.

  Use your index finder and thumb to pick up the ball. Mark the location of the ball, turn the ball over to see the markings, and then place it back in the exact same position. Do not clean your ball when identifying it. If you are in a hazard, you must first hit the ball and then identify it. If it is not in fact your ball, there is no penalty, but you must return to the grass to find your ball (and return the ball you hit to the spot you found it).

  4 Use a wedge.

  The heavy bottom of a sand wedge or pitching wedge will help the club head slice through the grass. Its open face will increase loft, so that the ball will land softly. Never hit a wood out of high grass.

  5 Take a practice swing.

  Find a spot away from the ball that has a similar rough and lie. Get a feel for how the club will react to plowing through the grass.

  6 Set up the club level with the ball.

  Since the ball may be propped up several inches above the ground, be careful not to align the club underneath the ball. In order to make up the distance that the higher grass has created, choke up on the club.

  7 Stand so that the ball is forward of the center of your stance.

  Play the ball between your front ankle and the center of your stance.

  8 Open your stance and the club face slightly.

  Take your club back in a V-shaped swing rather than a U-shaped swing. Do this by cocking your wrists more quickly as you take the club away from the ball.

  9 If you are a right-handed golfer, the ball will have a tendency to go to the left.

  To prevent this, grip the club firmly with your left hand and normally with your right hand. If you are left-handed, grip the club firmly with your right hand and normally with your left. Also, open the club face to decrease the likelihood of it closing as it fights its way through the grass prior to impact. Open the face to between 25 and 30 degrees.

  10 Accelerate the club head through the ball.

  Use the weight of the club and the added wrist cock to increase the club head speed down through impact.

  11 Shift the weight in your lower body as you hit.

  Adding a more pronounced weight shift will help you develop enough speed on your club head to pop the ball out of the grass.

  The Rules

  A two-stroke penalty will be assessed if you use your hands, club, or feet to improve the lie around the ball. Matting down the grass around the ball is prohibited.

  When you sole your club at address, you may inadvertently create an indentation in the grass into which your ball may roll. This incurs a one-stroke penalty. If the ball is in a hazard, the rule
s do not permit you to ground your club at all.

  HOW TO CAROM THE BALL OFF A WALL

  If your ball lands within a few feet of a wall, you may need to carom the ball off the wall. The ball’s proximity to the wall may make it impossible for you to make a proper stroke.

  1 Choose a club with enough loft to get the ball as high as possible off the wall.

  Choose a club that has the loft of a seven iron or greater. A nine iron or pitching wedge is the most common choice. The higher on the wall that the ball hits, the farther it will travel.

  2 Aim for the smoothest spot on the wall.

  The direction of the shot will be greatly affected by the surface of the wall. The smoother the wall, the more predictable the shot will be.

  3 If possible, play the ball in the middle of your stance.

  This is the ideal stance for this shot. However, if you are only a few ball lengths from the wall, you will have no choice but to play the ball closer to your front foot. The closeness to the wall may have the greatest effect on the extent of your follow-through.

  4 Map out the ricochet.

  The ball will bounce off the wall at the same angle that it hits. Decide where you want the ball to land and imagine a line extending to that spot from the wall. Pick the spot on the wall for which the angle coming off the wall is equal to the angle toward the wall, and mark the spot in your mind. This is much like a bank shot in billiards.

  5 Hit a “punch shot” to limit the follow-through.

  Keep your hands in front of the ball and take the club away vertically by cocking your wrists. Hit down into the ball and then into the ground under the ball in order to create enough force to get the ball off the wall with as little follow-through as possible. Imagine you are swinging an ax.

  The Rules

  You cannot push, scrape, or spoon the ball to gain better positioning or you will incur a two-stroke penalty. You must play the ball as it lies.