Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al Read online

  THE GREENWOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF

  CLOTHING THROUGH

  AMERICAN HISTORY

  1900 TO THE PRESENT

  THE GREENWOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF

  CLOTHING THROUGH

  AMERICAN HISTORY

  1900 TO THE PRESENT

  VOLUME 1

  1900–1949

  Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan,

  Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne

  Amy T. Peterson, General Editor

  GREENWOOD PRESS

  Westport, Connecticut • London

  Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

  The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present /

  Amy T. Peterson, general editor [v. 1], Ann T. Kellogg, general editor [v. 2].

  p. cm.

  Includes bibliographical references and index.

  ISBN 978 0 313 35855 5 ((set) : alk. paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33395 8 ((vol. 1) : alk.

  paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33417 7 ((vol. 2) : alk. paper)

  1. Clothing and dress—United States—History—20th century. I. Peterson, Amy T.

  II. Kellogg, Ann T., 1968

  GT615.G74 2008

  391.0097309004—dc22

  2008024624

  British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available.

  Copyright

  C 2008 by Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan,

  Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne

  All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be

  reproduced, by any process or technique, without the

  express written consent of the publisher.

  Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2008024624

  ISBN: 978 0 313 35855 5 (set)

  978 0 313 33395 8 (vol. 1)

  978 0 313 33417 7 (vol. 2)

  First published in 2008

  Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881

  An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc.

  www.greenwood.com

  Printed in the United States of America

  The paper used in this book complies with the

  Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National

  Information Standards Organization (Z39.48 1984).

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  Contents

  Preface

  ix

  Chronology of World and Fashion Events, 1900 1949

  xiii

  Part I: The Social Significance of Dress, 1900–1949

  1

  Chapter 1: The United States in 1900 1949: An Overview

  3

  Politics in America

  5

  Ethnicity in America

  6

  Art and Entertainment

  7

  Daily Life

  9

  The Changing Role of Women

  10

  Sexuality and Morality

  11

  Growing Up in America

  12

  Fashion

  14

  Chapter 2: Political and Cultural Events

  19

  The 1900s

  21

  The 1910s

  28

  The 1920s

  33

  The 1930s

  39

  The 1940s

  44

  Chapter 3: Art and Entertainment

  53

  The 1900s

  55

  The 1910s

  61

  The 1920s

  66

  The 1930s

  71

  The 1940s

  78

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  vi

  Contents

  Chapter 4: Daily Life

  87

  The 1900s

  89

  The 1910s

  95

  The 1920s

  100

  The 1930s

  105

  The 1940s

  107

  Chapter 5: The Individual and Family

  115

  The 1900s

  117

  The 1910s

  126

  The 1920s

  130

  The 1930s

  138

  The 1940s

  140

  Part II: Fashion and the Fashion Industry, 1900–1949

  147

  Chapter 6: The Business of Fashion

  149

  Haute Couture

  150

  Ready-to-Wear

  155

  Retail Operations

  158

  Fashion Communication

  161

  Fashion Technology

  165

  Chapter 7: Women’s Fashions

  169

  1900 1908, The Edwardian or La Belle Epoque Era

  171

  1909 1914, Empire Revival

  180

  1914 1919, World War I

  188

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  197

  1930s, The Great Depression

  211

  1940 1946, World War II

  223

  1947 1949, The New Look

  237

  Chapter 8: Men’s Fashions

  247

  The 1900s

  248

  The 1910s

  256

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  263

  1930s, The Great Depression

  272

  1940s, World War II

  280

  Chapter 9: Children’s Fashions

  289

  The 1900s

  291

  The 1910s

  297

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  307

  1930s, The Great Depression

  316

  1940s, World War II

  326

  Contents

  vii

  Glossary, 1900 1949

  341

  Resource Guide, 1900 1949

  347

  Print and Online Publications

  347

  Films and Video Media

  352

  Museums, Organizations, Special Collections, and Useful Websites

  354

  Cumulative Index

  361

  About the Contributors

  391

  Unnumbered photo essay appears following page 204.

  Preface

  Fashion is influenced by society, and, in turn, fashion influences society.

  Changes in appearance, however subtle or minimal, reflect changes in so-

  ciety. As society changes and evolves, so does fashion. Fashion is not the

  exclusive purview of the social elite, nor can it be summarily dismissed as

  mere vanity. It is much more complex than just wearing the latest styles.

  We use fashion to express who we are and what we think and to project

  an image, bolster our confidence, and attract partners. Fashion crosses all

  strata of society and is tightly interwoven into each individual’s identity.

  Undeniably, fashion ‘‘… is an essential part of the human experience’’

  (Damhorst, Miller, and Michelman 1999, p. xi).

  Clothing through American History 1900 to the Present examines th
e

  relationship between social, cultural, and political developments and fash-

  ion in the United States. Volume One discusses the culture, clothing, and

  fashion in America from 1900 to 1949, and Volume Two discusses the

  culture, clothing, and fashion in America from 1950 to the present, about

  midway through 2008 at this writing. Both volumes in this set are struc-

  tured to provide two levels of information to the reader: first, what people

  wore and, second, and perhaps more important, why they wore it. In

  addition to chapters on fashion trends, this work contains chapters specif-

  ically dedicated to examining the impact that politics, culture, arts and

  entertainment, daily life, and family structures have on fashion and how

  fashion can serve as an impetus for change in society. This set also exam-

  ines the history of the fashion industry and the communication of fashion

  information in print, in movies and television, and across the Internet.

  Research for this work was conducted through numerous primary and

  secondary resources on fashion and history, which can be found in the

  chapter references and in the Resource Guide at the end of each volume,

  particularly in the ‘‘Print and Online Publications’’ section. Not all

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  Preface

  historical or current events, art movements, or socio-cultural theories were

  considered in the development of this book; the scope was limited only to

  those areas the authors believed directly impacted fashion trends. Nor is

  this book a comprehensive guide to subculture or alternative fashion

  movements; the focus is on the mainstream, common fashion trends that

  were adopted by the majority of Americans.

  To guide the reader, a chronology of key historical events and fashion

  trends is provided at the beginning of each volume. Illustrations of signif-

  icant fashion trends for both men and women are included to supplement

  the descriptive text, as does a glossary of fashion terms, which will assist

  the reader with terminology. An extensive resource guide of numerous

  articles and books, videos, and films that demonstrate fashion of certain

  eras, and a substantial listing of authoritative websites, including those for

  museums and special collections, rounds out the Selected Resources

  provided.

  T H E T W E N T I E T H A N D T W EN T Y-FIRST

  C E N T U R I E S

  The birth of the twentieth century marked the beginning of the new,

  modern era that was more open, expressive, and progressive than the re-

  served and sober nineteenth-century Victorian era. Changes in society

  were rapidly taking place. The telephone, electricity, automobiles, and

  cameras, at first technological marvels, became commonplace items. Over

  the course of the century, mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing replaced

  custom-made hand-tailored clothing, allowing new fashions to be rapidly

  reproduced and distributed in large volumes simultaneously across the

  entire country. First store catalogs, and then the Internet, made fashions

  immediately accessible to individuals in even the most remote parts of the

  country. After World War II, the economic prosperity experienced by most

  of the United States resulted in a population shift from urban to suburban,

  and fashion followed suit with the development of the shopping mall.

  The last half of the twentieth century was marked by space explora-

  tion, activism, and civil unrest. The tumult of the 1960s witnessed the

  birth of both space exploration and the Civil Rights Movement. Although

  the ultra-hip donned vinyl dresses with metallic details, African Ameri-

  cans explored their origins and adopted traditional forms of African dress

  to express their identity. Middle-class youth became involved in numerous

  social protest movements against the establishment and, dubbed ‘ hippies,’’

  chose to differentiate themselves from their parents by rejecting Jackie-O

  Preface

  xi

  dress with high heels and Brooks Brother suits and adopting ethnic dress,

  long hair, and beards.

  As the final decades of the twentieth century approached, the social

  consciousness of the 1960s and 1970s was replaced by conspicuous con-

  sumption in the 1980s. Instead of reflecting allegiance with a social move-

  ment, fashion now reflected one’s material worth and station in society.

  Status symbols were prominently displayed on all apparel, as well as on

  many household goods. Bigger was better, and indulging in luxury was

  the message broadcast to all of society.

  In response to the excesses of the 1980s, the 1990s appeared almost

  generic. Most forms of self-expressions in fashions were gone: not so

  many designer labels nor as much conspicuous consumption. Khakis and

  white t-shirts became the norm and were considered acceptable dress for

  almost every occasion. Even the workplace began to dress down, imple-

  menting ‘ business casual’ and ‘ casual Fridays,’’ instead of the standard

  suit and tie and dressy outfits for women. Whereas the 1980s screamed

  self-indulgence, the 1990s quietly and calmly, in an understated manner,

  closed out the century.

  From the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne to mass mer-

  chandisers, from Nordstrom to Overstock.com, the rapid (and now

  global) dissemination of fashion information is a potent agent for change

  in society. Fashion and society are inextricably intertwined, each influenc-

  ing the other. This book attempts to identify those connections and not

  just document the fashions of this time but also give context to them. As

  we progress through the twenty-first century, we will have to wait until

  enough time has passed to look back and read how fashion influenced

  twenty-first-century society and how the events of this new century are

  registered in the fashions we all wear.

  We thank our friends, family, and colleagues for their support and

  encouragement throughout the course of this project. We are grateful for

  the assistance and reassurance that you each provided.

  Amy T. Peterson

  Ann T. Kellogg

  R E F E R E N C E

  Damhorst, M. L., Miller, K. A., and Michelman, S. O. (1999) The Meanings of

  Dress. New York: Fairchild Publications.

  Chronology of World and

  Fashion Events, 1900–1949

  1900

  The World’s Fair (Exposition Universelle) is held in Paris.

  1901

  President William McKinley is assassinated on September 6, and

  Theodore Roosevelt assumes the presidency.

  1901

  Marconi sends the first wireless message across the Atlantic Ocean

  on December 12.

  1901

  Queen Victoria of England dies on January 22, ending the

  Victorian Era.

  1903

  The Wright Brothers make a successful airplane flight at Kitty

  Hawk, North Carolina, on December 17.

  1906

  Major earthquake destroys much of San Francisco, California, on

  April 18.

  1906

  Paul Poiret introduced the empire waistline into women’s fashions.

  1907

  Pablo Pic
asso paints Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.

  1907

  Mariano Fortuny creates the ‘‘Delphos’’ gown.

  1908

  Henry Ford produces the first Model T car on September 27.

  1909

  William E. B. DuBois leads a group that founds the National

  Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) on

  February 12.

  1909

  William Howard Taft becomes president on March 4.

  1912

  The ocean liner Titanic sinks on its maiden voyage on April 14.

  1913

  Woodrow Wilson becomes president of the United States on

  March 4.

  1913

  Jantzen introduced the first rib-knit swimsuit, which had the elas-

  ticity to allow easy swimming.

  1914

  The Panama Canal opens under lease to the United States on

  August 15.

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  xiv

  Chronology of World and Fashion Events, 1900–1949

  1917

  The United States joins World War I on the side of the Allies on

  April 6.

  1917

  The Immigration Act excludes Asian laborers from entering the

  United States.

  1920

  First General Assembly of the League of Nations convenes on

  January 10.

  1920

  The Nineteenth Amendment gives American women the right to

  vote.

  1920

  Prohibition begins in the United States with the enactment of the

  Eighteenth Amendment.

  1920

  Ethelda M. Bleibtrey, an American, wins three medals for women’s

  swimming at the Olympics in Antwerp.

  1921

  Hitler is elected president of National Socialist German Workers’

  Party on July 29.

  1921

  Mussolini declares himself leader of National Fascist Party in Italy

  on November 7.

  1921

  Madeleine Vionnet makes her United States debut.

  1921

  Chanel’s ‘‘No. 5’’ perfume is introduced.

  1921

  Wiener Werstatte opens branch in New York.

  1922

  James Joyce releases his epic, Ulysses.

  1922

  The first woman, Rebecca Fenton, is appointed to the U.S. Senate

  on October 3.

  1922

  Discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings,

  Egypt.

  1922

  Victor Margueritte’s novel La Garconne is released and helps define

  the flapper era.

  1922

  Emily Post publishes her first book, Etiquette.

  1923

  Madeleine Vionnet invents the bias cut.

  1923

  Sigmund Freud publishes Das Ich und das Es (The Ego and the Id).

  1923

  The first birth control clinic opens in New York.