Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander Read online

  صمحلا

  Hummus

  סומוח

  صمحلا

  O N T H E H U M M U S R O U T E

  A J O U R N E Y B E T W E E N C I T I E S , P E O P L E ,

  A N D D R E A M S

  Hummus

  A R I E L R O S E N T H A L

  O R L Y P E L I - B R O N S H T E I N

  D A N A L E X A N D E R

  סומוח

  صمحلا

  Ariel Rosenthal

  Hummus

  Orly Peli-Bronshtein

  סומוח

  Dan Alexander

  M A N Y T H A N K S T O O U R G L O B A L T E A M

  O F C O N T R I B U T O R S F O R S H A R I N G T H E I R

  L O V E O F H U M M U S

  a u t h o r s

  a n o n y m o u s

  e l i a k a h v e d j i a n

  av i s . r av i t z k i

  Ariel Rosenthal

  Photographer; Damascus

  Late founder of the Photo Elia photo shop

  Artist; Périgord

  Orly Peli-Bronshtein

  and legendary photographer; Jerusalem

  Dan Alexander

  m o h a m m e d a s a d

  c l a u d i a r o d e n

  Photographer; Gaza

  j o u d i e k a l l a

  Food researcher, cultural anthropologist,

  i n i t i at o r a n d v i s i o n

  Chef, food consultant, and author; London

  and author; London

  Ariel Rosenthal

  n o f ata m n a - i s m a e e l

  Chef, food festival director; Kafr Qara

  a r i n a b u - h a m i d k u r d i

  n i m r o d s au n d e r s

  c o n c e p t, c h i e f e d i t o r , a n d d e s i g n

  Chef and restaurateur; Acre

  Photographer; Givatayim

  Dan Alexander

  y o s e f b a b a l l a h

  Chef and restaurateur; Umm al-Fahm

  d av i d l o f t u s

  h i n d ta h b o u b

  r e c i p e s a n d c u l i n a r y e d i t o r

  Photographer; London

  Chef; Paris

  Orly Peli-Bronshtein

  d r . o n b a r a k

  Historian, lecturer, and author; Tel Aviv

  f e l i x l u pa

  s a m i ta m i m i

  g r a p h i c d e s i g n a n d a rt d i r e c t i o n

  Photographer; Tel Aviv

  Chef, restaurateur, and author; London

  Dan Alexander & Co.

  f e l i p e r o m e r o b e lt r á n

  i t z i k l u z o n

  b r a n d o n tau s z i k

  s t u d i o d i r e c t o r

  Photographer; Bogotá

  Restaurateur; Jaffa

  Photographer and filmmaker; California

  Maya Shitrit Shwartz

  j o s h b e r e r

  f a r o u k m a r d a m - b e y

  m o u s a taw f i q

  e n g l i s h t r a n s l at i o n

  Calligrapher and craftsman;

  Historian, food researcher, author, and

  Journalist and researcher; Paris and Gaza

  Nomi Abeliovich

  Washington D.C.

  publisher; Paris

  e n g l i s h t e x t e d i t o r

  y a r o n b r e n e r

  k a r i m m o s ta fa

  Gabriella Gershenson

  Photographer; Tel Aviv

  Photographer; Beirut

  s p e c i a l t h a n k s t o

  c h a r l e s c o n s ta n t i n e

  m o h a m m a d o r fa l i

  Karim Haidar, Hind Tahboub, Adeena Sussman,

  Photographer; Paris and Beirut

  Syrian chef, restaurateur, and culinary

  Linda Mady, Iris Gelbart

  expert; Dubai

  d r . y a h y a d i w e r , m d

  Doctor and photographer; Alexandria

  e i l o n pa z

  Photographer; New York

  p r o f. l i o r a g v i o n

  Sociologist, lecturer, and author; Tel Aviv

  s h a i p e r i

  Photographer; Kiryat Ono

  magica

  k a r i m h a i d a r

  Chef, restaurateur, and founder of the

  a n n a - m a r i e r av i t z k i

  Academy of Arab Cuisine; Paris

  Philosopher, poet, and artist;

  Périgord and Paris

  Celebratory first edition, 2019

  Printed in the Middle East

  • Both the metric and USCS measurements are included in

  © All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

  the recipes, for your onvenience. When following a recipe,

  stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any

  we recommend working with one of these systems only.

  means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without

  • All spoon measurements are level, unless stated otherwise.

  the prior permission of the authors.

  A teaspoon is 5 millimeters and a tablespoon is 15 millimeters.

  • For hummus dip or falafel, we recommend first referring to

  w w w. h u m m u s r o u t e . c o m

  the step-by-step recipes on pages 178-9 and 184-5.

  Hummus

  T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S

  J A F F A

  M E M O R I E S F R O M M Y M O T H E R ’ S K I T C H E N by Joudie Kalla . . . . . . . . 1 1 5

  H U M M U S B I L S H A T T A Hummus with Hot Peppers by Joudie Kalla . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 7

  M S A B A H A Swimming Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8

  M E S H U L A S H Triple Hummus à la Abu Hassan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 0

  S A R D I N E F A L A F E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2

  A P A L E S T I N I A N , A L E B A N E S E , A N D A N I S R A E L I W A L K I N T O

  W H I T E F A V A B E A N H U M M U S by Itzik Luzon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 3

  A B A R by Dan Alexander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3

  P I T A P O C K E T S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4

  D E F I N I T I O N : C I C E R , T H E O R I G I N O F C H I C K P E A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7

  A B R I E F H I S T O R Y O F H U M M U S by Orly Peli-Bronshtein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 9

  C H I C K P E A S A C R O S S T H E G L O B E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9

  T H E T A L E O F M U L L A H N A S R E D D I N A N D H I S C O A T . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 9

  C A I R O

  T E L A V I V

  T H E W A N D E R I N G K I T C H E N by Claudia Roden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3

  H U M M U S A N D M E – I T ’ S P E R S O N A L by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 7

  T H E R O L L I N G F A L A F E L B A L L by Dr. On Barak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

  C O O K E D C H I C K P E A S F O R H U M M U S by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 6

  T A ’ A M I Y A Fava Bean Falafel by Cla
udia Roden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 8

  C O O K E D C H I C K P E A S F O R S A L A D S A N D S T E W S by Ariel Rosenthal 1 7 6

  K O S H A R Y Chickpeas, Lentils, and Rice with Spicy Tomato Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 0

  H U M M U S H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 8

  F E R A K H B E L H U M M U S Chicken and Chickpea Casserole by Claudia Roden . . . . . . . 5 2

  H A R I S S A H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 0

  H A L A B E S S A Tomato-Chickpea Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

  F R I E D E G G P L A N T H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 2

  D U K K A H C R A C K E R S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 6

  F A L A F E L H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 4

  M O R O C C A N F I S H H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 6

  R I C E W I T H C A R A M E L I Z E D O N I O N S H A K O S E M by Ariel Rosenthal . 1 8 8

  G A Z A

  P I C K L E D C A R R O T S A N D C A B B A G E by Ariel Rosenthal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 0

  A P O O R M A N ’ S K E B A B by Mousa Tawfiq . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

  C H I C K P E A T O C O O K a Poem by Rumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 1

  J E R U S A L E M

  H U M M U S B I T A H I N E Hummus with Tahini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 2

  O N I O N - S T U F F E D F A L A F E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 4

  C H I C K P E A S O F T H E G O D S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 9

  D I L L F A L A F E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

  M Y C U R I O S I T Y F O R F O O D by Sami Tamimi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 1

  C H I C K P E A C O N F I T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7

  T H E S W E E T E S T C H I C K P E A O F A L L Kdaameh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 3

  K A S H K S O U P W I T H C H I C K P E A S A N D R I C E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 9

  T E L L M E H O W Y O U E A T Y O U R H U M M U S , A N D I W I L L T E L L

  C H I C K P E A A N D V E A L C A S S E R O L E W I T H S H A T T A P E P P E R S . . . 9 0

  Y O U W H O Y O U A R E by Prof. Liora Gvion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 5

  M A F T O U L Palestinian Couscous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 1

  A H U M M U S N A R R A T I V E by Hind Tahboub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 1

  A N G E L S I N G A Z A by Anna-Marie Ravitzki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3

  C H I C K P E A S F O R T H E F I R S T - B O R N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 3

  Table of Contents

  Hummus

  A R B E S Salt-and-Pepper Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 7

  B E I R U T

  L A B L A B I Spicy Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 8

  Q E D R E H K H A L I L I Y E H The Hebronite Pot by Hind Tahboub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 9

  H U M M U S W I T H O U T B O R D E R S by Karim Haidar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 4 9

  L A M B - S T U F F E D F A L A F E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 0

  C H I C K P E A S C A N C H A N G E T H E W O R L D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 5 3

  B A J I A Yemenite Falafel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 2

  H U M M U S W I T H S Q U I D I N K A N D B O T T A R G A by Karim Haidar . . . . . 3 5 4

  R O A S T E D S Q U A S H W I T H T A H I N I Y O G U R T , F R I E D C H I C K P E A S ,

  F A T T E T H U M M U S Crispy Pita Layered with Chickpeas, Yogurt, and Tahini . . . . . . . . 3 5 5

  A N D G R E E N C H I L E S A L S A by Sami Tamimi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 4

  B E A N S F I T F O R A K I N G . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 5 7

  Q U D S I Y E H Hummus with Ful Medames and Chickpeas by Hind Tahboub . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 5

  F A T A Y E R Chickpea and Wild Spinach Pies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 5 8

  H A M I N S H P O N D R A Overnight Short-Rib, Potato, and Chickpea Casserole . . . . . . . . 2 4 6

  M A G H M O U R Vegetarian Moussaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 5 9

  S H U L B A T A Bulgur Pilaf with Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 0

  B A L I L A Garlic-Cumin Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 1

  N A Z A R E T H

  H U M M U S B E I R U T I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 2

  T H E P R E G N A N T C H I C K P E A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6 9

  T H E J O Y O F G R O W I N G C H I C K P E A S by Nof Atamna-Ismaeel . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 1

  D A M A S C U S

  M I R A C L E W A T E R Aquafaba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 5

  F A L A F E L B ’ A J I N Vegetarian Lahmajun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 6

  F R I E D C H I C K P E A S W I T H B A H A R A T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 6

  F R E S H Z A ’ A T A R F A L A F E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 7

  T H E O N L Y I M P O R T A N T Q U E S T I O N T O A S K by Farouk Mardam-Bey . . 3 8 3

  W A R M G A L I L E A N H U M M U S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 9

  H U M M U S H A S I T S M E M O R I E S by Mohammad Orfali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 5

  C H O P P E D V E G E T A B L E S A L A D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8 0

  A T H O U S A N D – Y E A R – O L D H A N G O V E R C U R E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 9

  T A H I N I S A U C E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8 1

  B U R G H O L B I D F I N E Chickpea, Bulgur, and Carrot Stew by Farouk Mardam-Bey . . . . . 3 9 0

  B A Q D O N S I Y A Green Tahini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8 1

  H U M M U S B I L L A H M E H Hummus with Buttered Lamb by Mohammad Orfali . . . . . . 3 9 1

  F A L A F E L S H A M I Green Falafel Patties with Baharat Spice . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 9 2

  F R I E D C H I C K P E A S A M B U S A S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 9 3

  A C R E

  Y A K H N I Lamb and Chickpea Stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 9 4

  M A H S H I S I Y A M I Zucchini Stuffed with Rice and Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 9 5

  A N A N C I E N T S H O P P I N G L I S T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 0 5

  K I B B E H H E M O Stuffed Semolina Dumplings in Chickpea Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 9 6

  T H E H U M M U S H A R V E S T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 1

  T H E G O L D E N C H I C K P E A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 1

  H U M M U S A L A K A W I by Yosef Baballah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 2

  F A L A F E L A L A K A W I by Yosef Baballah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 3

  H U M M U S E L A B E D by Arin Abu-Hamid Kurdi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 4

  M A K H L U T A Hummus with Ful Medames, Chickpeas, and Olive Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 6

  S A J P I T A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 8

  M N A Z Z A L E H Eggplant, Bell Pepper, and Chickpea Stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 9

  Hummus

  A P A L E S T I N I A N , A L E B A N E S E ,

  A N D A N I S R A E L I W A L K I N T O A B A R

  Dan Alexander

  A Palestinian, a Lebanese, and an Israeli walk into a bar… this is not the

  beginning of a joke; this is the story of how Ariel and I met Hind, a Palestinian

  chef, and Karim, a French chef originally from Lebanon, in a Parisian bar that

  is a renowned institution overlooking the Louvre Museum. We were excited and

  tense, each of us burdened with a baggage of sorts mostly made up of prejudice.

  It was a blind date between cultures and, as blind dates go, the initial chatter,

  broken language, insecurities, and all other patterns of reality were but simple

  attempts to break the ice between us, right there and then around our table at

  39 rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, not far from the Mona Lisa and all that stands