Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers Read online

  Fresh pasta cooks in just a minute or two. The time needed to cook dried pasta depends on its thickness; don’t trust the time suggested on the pasta box—it’s sometimes too long. The only way to know when pasta is ready is to taste it. Several minutes before you expect the pasta to be done, start testing it every minute so you’ll catch it when it is al dente—that is, tender but with a firm bite. Drain it in a colander and transfer to a serving bowl.

  Pasta is best eaten while it is hot, so it’s nice to heat the serving bowl. The simplest way to do that is to place a colander in your serving bowl in the sink. When the pasta is done, pour it into the colander, lift the colander, and leave the hot water in the bowl for a minute. Then just pour the water down the drain and transfer the pasta to the now warm bowl. The bowl can also be warmed in a 200° oven while the pasta cooks.

  creamy lemon pasta

  In Comfort Me with Apples, Ruth Reichl attributes the original recipe to Danny Kaye, but lemon and cream seems such a simple, natural combination that we suppose people were putting it on pasta long before Danny Kaye was born.

  SERVES 4

  TIME: 15 MINUTES

  1 lemon

  ¼ cup unsalted butter

  1 cup heavy cream

  1 pound fresh fettuccine or dried spaghettini

  1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

  salt and pepper

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, grate the lemon peel (about 2 teaspoons of zest) and squeeze the lemon (about 3 tablespoons of juice).

  In a small skillet or saucepan on low heat, melt the butter. Stir in the cream and heat gently. Stir in the lemon juice and zest. Turn off the heat.

  When the water boils, cook the pasta until al dente (2 or 3 minutes for fresh pasta, longer for dried). Set aside a cup of the hot pasta-cooking water and drain the pasta.

  Place the hot drained pasta in a large serving bowl, add the lemon cream sauce, and toss. Add some or all of the reserved hot water if more liquid is needed. Toss in the grated Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

  variations

  Add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped chives, about a cup of hot, cooked green peas, and some red pepper flakes when you add the cheese.

  For a lighter version, use olive oil in place of butter and half-and-half instead of cream. If you have some arugula in your refrigerator, here’s a great way to use it up: Put about 3 cups of loosely packed arugula leaves in the bottom of the serving bowl; it will wilt when you add the hot pasta.

  pasta with olives piquant

  So easy to make, yet simply delectable—if you keep an assortment of good deli olives on hand, supper is only minutes away. (See photo)

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 25 MINUTES

  1 pound spaghetti or other pasta

  1½ cups assorted pitted olives

  4 garlic cloves, minced

  3 tablespoons olive oil

  ½ cup minced fresh parsley

  ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

  grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese (optional)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, mince the olives by hand or in a food processor. If you use a food processor, pulse the olives for only a few seconds—until finely chopped but not pasty.

  In a heavy skillet on low heat, cook the garlic in the oil until golden. Add the parsley, red pepper flakes, and chopped olives. Cook, stirring constantly, just until the parsley is wilted and the olives are heated through. Remove from the heat.

  When the pasta is done, reserve a cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta and place it in a serving bowl. Add the olive mixture (swirl some of the cooking water in the skillet to get the last bits of olive out). Toss, and if the pasta needs more moisture, add more of the cooking water. Serve topped with grated cheese if you wish.

  INGREDIENT NOTE Choose a selection of olives, being sure to include kalamatas for their rich, briny taste, and some meaty big green olives. Olives stuffed with pimientos, garlic, or lemon peel will add bits of color and flavor.

  serving & menu ideas

  Pasta with Olives Piquant served with Lemony Green Beans makes a great meal, and it’s easy to prepare both in about 30 minutes. Or try Fresh Tomato & Mozzarella Salad, served alongside or tossed with the pasta.

  pasta with tomatoes, summer & winter

  Pasta with tomatoes may be the most fundamental and satisfying simple supper—it’s fast, versatile, and always good, time after time. In the winter, spaghetti and tomato sauce with cheese hits the spot. In the summer, we never tire of pasta with good ripe tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and fresh basil.

  SERVES 4

  TIME: 25 MINUTES

  1 pound pasta

  Simple Tomato Sauce or Fresh Tomato & Mozzarella Salad

  grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese (optional)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, prepare Simple Tomato Sauce or Fresh Tomato & Mozzarella Salad.

  When the pasta is done, drain it and top with sauce and grated cheese, or toss with the tomatoes and mozzarella.

  INGREDIENT NOTE Any shape of pasta is fine, but a short, chunky pasta goes best with Fresh Tomato & Mozzarella Salad, and tomato sauce is traditionally paired with long strands.

  serving & menu ideas

  A green salad is a tried-and-true accompaniment. Another tasty side dish is Lemony Green Beans. Have Sweet Spiced Nuts and a glass of port for dessert.

  pasta with greens & ricotta

  Mustard greens and broccoli raab (also called brocoletti di rape, rape, and rapini) are somewhat bitter, a good counterpoint to creamy, subtly flavored ricotta cheese.

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 25 MINUTES

  1 bunch mustard greens or broccoli raab (about 1 pound)

  1 pound penne, fusilli, or other short chunky pasta

  6 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  1 tablespoon olive oil

  1 teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon black pepper

  15 ounces ricotta cheese

  1 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, remove the tough stems from the mustard greens and chop the leaves. If using broccoli raab, discard the bottom ½ inch of the stems and chop the rest. Rinse and drain the greens.

  When the water boils, cook the pasta until al dente.

  While the pasta cooks, in a large skillet or pot on low heat, cook the garlic in the oil until golden. Add a couple of handfuls of the still damp greens to the skillet and stir until wilted. Continue adding greens and stirring until all of the greens are in the skillet. Add some of the pasta-cooking water, if needed, to prevent sticking, and cook until the greens are tender but still bright green. Add the salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

  In a large serving bowl, stir about ½ cup of pasta cooking water into the ricotta cheese and whisk until smooth. When the pasta is done, drain it, and add to the ricotta. Add the wilted greens and ½ cup of the grated cheese and toss well. Add more salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with the rest of the grated cheese.

  serving & menu ideas

  Beet Salad or Carrot Salad with Raspberry Vinaigrette looks beautiful and tastes great with this pasta.

  pasta with broccoli, edamame & walnuts

  Shelled edamame (fresh soybeans) are available in the frozen food section of many natural foods stores and supermarkets. Whole wheat pasta is especially good in this dish. If you think you’ll be lucky enough to have leftovers for lunch tomorrow, instead of tossing the walnuts into the pasta, sprinkle them on top of each serving.

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 20 MINUTES

  ¾ pound chunky pasta

  ¼ cup olive oil

  4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  3 cups bite-sized pieces of broccoli


  1 cup frozen shelled edamame

  ¾ teaspoon salt

  ¼ cup chopped fresh basil, oregano, thyme, or marjoram

  1 cup chopped toasted walnuts

  salt and pepper

  grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese (optional)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet on low heat. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds. Add the broccoli with about ½ cup of the hot pasta-cooking water, turn the heat to high, and cook for about 2 minutes. Add the edamame, salt, and herbs. Continue to cook until the water evaporates and the broccoli is crisp-tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

  When the pasta is done, drain it. In a serving bowl, toss the pasta with the vegetable mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and the toasted chopped walnuts. Season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with grated cheese if you wish.

  INGREDIENT NOTE In place of fresh herbs, add about 2 teaspoons of dried herbs to the skillet with the broccoli.

  serving & menu ideas

  Have some Butterscotch Icebox Cookies or a 5-Minute Milkshake for dessert.

  fettuccine with fresh herbs

  Fresh summer herbs release an intense, splendid aroma when you stir them into hot oil. (See photo)

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 20 MINUTES

  1 pound fettuccine or other pasta

  ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  ½ cup minced fresh parsley

  ½ cup minced fresh basil

  ½ cup minced chives or scallions

  ½ teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon black pepper

  grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese (optional)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, prepare the garlic and herbs. Warm the oil in a small pan on low heat. Add the garlic and cook for about a minute until the garlic is golden; don’t let it brown. Add the herbs and cook for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat, ladle about ½ cup of the hot pasta-cooking water into the pan, and set aside.

  When the pasta is done, drain it. Place the drained pasta in a serving bowl, add the herb and oil mixture and the salt and pepper, and toss well. Toss in some grated cheese if you like. Serve right away.

  INGREDIENT NOTE If you have a garden filled with herbs, you may want to add some other fresh herbs such as thyme, sage, marjoram, mint, chervil, oregano, or summer savory.

  serving & menu ideas

  Serve with one of the Crostini as a first course, or with Fresh Tomato & Mozzarella Salad on the side.

  fettuccine with walnut pesto

  Rich and delicious Walnut Pesto can be made in minutes in a food processor or blender—it will be ready before the pasta has cooked. Make extra; it keeps well for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator and is good on boiled potatoes and steamed fish.

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 20 MINUTES

  1 pound fettuccine or other pasta

  WALNUT PESTO

  1 cup chopped fresh or canned tomatoes

  2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  ½ teaspoon salt

  1 cup toasted walnuts

  ½ cup very thinly sliced fresh basil leaves (optional)

  1 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese (optional)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Reserve about a cup of the pasta-cooking liquid and then drain.

  Meanwhile, make the Walnut Pesto: In a blender or food processor, purée the tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and salt for a few seconds, until smooth. Add the walnuts and process until an even-colored and somewhat lumpy paste is formed. If you’re using fresh tomatoes, you might need to add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water to the mixture.

  Transfer the drained pasta to a serving bowl. Toss the pasta with the Walnut Pesto, adding enough reserved cooking liquid to make it saucy. Serve immediately, topped with basil and grated cheese, if you wish.

  serving & menu ideas

  Serve with a simple green vegetable, such as broccoli or sautéed greens, or with a spinach salad with Caesar Dressing. Make Watercress Crostini to munch on until the pasta is ready.

  pasta with caramelized onions & blue cheese

  Here’s a simple supper to make in the chill of fall or winter, when the sweetness of the onions and the richness of the cheese is comforting.

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 30 MINUTES

  1 pound chunky pasta

  1 tablespoon olive oil

  6 cups chopped onions

  1 teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon black pepper

  ½ cup dry white wine, vegetable broth, or water

  4 ounces crumbled blue cheese (1 cup)

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, in a skillet on medium heat, warm the oil and cook the onions with the salt and pepper until soft, golden brown, and lightly caramelized. (The larger your skillet, the faster the onions will caramelize. In a 12- or 14-inch skillet, the process may take less than 10 minutes. In a smaller skillet in which the onions are crowded, it could take 20 minutes.) Add the wine, broth, or water and continue to cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is done. If the onions begin to stick, add some pasta-cooking water.

  When the pasta is done, drain it, reserving a cup of the hot water. Place the pasta in a serving bowl, add the onions (swirl some of the reserved water around in the skillet to get out every tasty bit) and the blue cheese, and toss together to melt the cheese and coat the pasta. Add more of the pasta-cooking water if you’d like it saucier. Serve hot.

  serving & menu ideas

  A salad with slightly bitter greens goes well with this sweet, rich pasta. Or toss endive with Toasted Pecan Vinaigrette. Peach Brown Betty is a sweet ending.

  spaghetti with sun-dried tomatoes & pine nuts

  This traditional southern Italian pasta recipe, with its base of aglio e olio, garlic and oil, is one of those rustic foods that presents like a gourmet dish. It’s made entirely with pantry items, so it’s a perfect last-minute supper.

  Serves 4 to 6

  TIME: 25 MINUTES

  ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes

  1 pound spaghetti

  3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  8 to 10 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  ¼ cup toasted pine nuts

  ¼ cup minced fresh parsley (optional)

  salt and pepper to taste

  grated Parmesan or crumbled ricotta salata (optional)

  Place the sun-dried tomatoes in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water, and set aside to soften for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  While the pasta cooks, in a small pan on low heat or in a microwave-safe bowl, heat the oil and garlic until golden. Set aside. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes, reserving the soaking liquid. Cut the tomatoes into thin strips.

  When the pasta is done, drain it and place in a serving bowl. Add the cooked garlic, sun-dried tomato strips, pine nuts, and parsley. Toss well. Stir in some of the reserved sun-dried tomato soaking liquid to moisten the pasta, if needed. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot, topped with grated cheese if you like.

  INGREDIENT NOTES Add chopped fresh tomatoes, a couple tablespoons of capers or sliced olives, and/or some thinly sliced fresh fennel (sauté it in the oil before adding the garlic).

  serving & menu ideas

  Have a tossed green salad and enjoy Mocha Sorbet for dessert.

  pasta with artichoke hearts & feta

  Feta cheese, garlic, and artichoke hearts are some of our favorite ingredients; here, they’re combined in a very
simple pasta dish that packs a lot of flavor. For this dish, we make an instant creamy sauce by stirring hot pasta-cooking water into feta.

  SERVES 4 TO 6

  TIME: 30 MINUTES

  1 pound pasta

  2 cups chopped onions

  3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  2 teaspoons dried oregano

  3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  2 14-ounce cans of artichoke hearts, drained and quartered

  ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

  1½ cups crumbled feta cheese

  Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

  Meanwhile, in a skillet on medium-high heat, cook the onions, garlic, and oregano in the oil, stirring frequently, until the onions soften and are turning brown at the edges, about 7 minutes. Add the artichoke hearts and cook until heated through, a couple of minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley.

  When the pasta is done, drain it, reserving 1½ cups of the pasta-cooking liquid. In a serving bowl, whisk the reserved liquid into the feta until smooth. Add the pasta and the artichoke mixture and toss.