Urban Crayon Read online

  urban crayon

  DELHI

  urban crayon

  DELHI

  Kim Barrington Narisetti

  PENGUIN BOOKS

  CONTENTS

  INTRODUCTION

  New Delhi is full of ways to have great outings every day of the week. Here’s some basic information to get you started.

  BEAUTY AND THE BEAST

  Keep your little angels and mini-monsters entertained with fabulous outdoor fun in the city.

  DIVAS

  The hot spots for girls out on the town. Turn favourite pastimes into a cultural event and then some.

  DUDES

  Boys will be boys, and they certainly love their toys. So hit the hot spots for boys out on the town.

  CO-ED

  Have fun of a somewhat more ‘indoor’ kind with both guys and dolls.

  PLAYGROUND PARADISE

  From indoor and outdoor sports to catching the latest movies, bowling, bungee jumping and ballooning, horse-back riding and experiencing the thrills and spills of amusement parks, Delhi is where it’s at.

  MAKE THE MOST OF MUSEUMS

  The museum itinerary may make the children whine, but they will thank you when the day is done. And walking tours and an unforgettable train journey will bring Delhi’s history alive.

  IF YOU HAVE TO BE A TOURIST

  Discover the wonderment of all the sight-seeing must-sees Delhi has to offer the family.

  DAY TRIPPIN’ AND OVERNIGHTERS

  There is plenty to see and do just a few hours’ drive from Delhi. Experience nature, calming lakes, and places where the family might just want to relax.

  EATS

  Delhi is quite a patchwork of culinary delights. There is a great deal here for everyone and for all budgets.

  SHOPPING

  Check out the many mega malls and the high-end and low-end markets and numerous bazaars.

  SLEEPS

  Discover the right family hotel with ease and comfort.

  READY RECKONER

  Essential information at your fingertips.

  INDEX

  INTRODUCTION

  Namaste!

  Built on the banks of the Yamuna River, New Delhi, the second largest city in India, beautifully intertwines the country’s historical past and a bustling, vibrant present. The city, which dates back to at least the sixth century BC, has survived numerous invasions over the centuries and many ancient monuments depicting the style of the invaders survive in Delhi to this day. The seventh city, the walled city of Old Delhi was constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan beginning in 1639 when he moved the Mughal capital from Agra and it served as the capital from 1639–1857. New Delhi is actually the eighth city of Delhi, having been established by the British, who gained control of much of India in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The British built up most of what we see today in Delhi beginning in the 1920s. New Delhi became the capital and seat of government when India became independent of British rule in 1947.

  One of the fastest growing cities in all of India, Delhi is comprised of two architecturally and historically contrasting, yet symbiotic parts, the Old Delhi and New Delhi, making it an ideal place to get the feel for northern India. New Delhi has come a long way from its beginnings as a city with maze-like streets that were once the domains of forts with markets and bazaars at the centre, to one that is now dominated by trendy restaurants, high-end shopping malls, art galleries and well-manicured parks. With a population of nearly 18 million people who have come to Delhi from neighbouring states to put down roots, the city is truly cosmopolitan.

  For families looking for adventure or to get a bit of culture, New Delhi is full of ways to have great outings every day of the week. The city is full of historic and architectural sights. Although the city is spread out, it is quite easy to get around, that is, if a strong gust of wind doesn’t blow the streets signs in the opposite direction. This is one of the reasons that I felt the need to write Urban Crayon Delhi.

  As a parent of two young daughters, ages four and seven, who prefer a picnic in Lodhi Garden instead of making it to the next level of the latest Wii game, I found that parent-friendly information on how to navigate Delhi easily isn’t readily available. So we three set out to discover Delhi—the real Delhi—and make it easy for other parents who are likely wrestling a stroller, children, juice boxes and Kleenex packs all at the same time. From the beauty of Lodhi Gardens, to the petals of the Lotus Temple, the brilliant chaos of Chandni Chowk and the calm of Gandhi Smriti, we walked, drove, took cycle rickshaws and auto rickshaws. We went on guided tours in air-conditioned buses and took the metro from the first stop to the last. We had camel rides, splashed in swimming pools and water parks and watched the sun set at India Gate. We did arts and crafts and ate delicious Sunday brunches at Yum Yum Tree, took in the brilliance of modern art at the National Gallery and were in awe at the sound and light show at the Red Fort.

  There were days filled with bowling and 3D movies and other days when we all learned about the bird species that are drawn to Delhi’s lakes year after year. An ostrich got friendly with us at the Delhi Zoo, and the camel wouldn’t budge at the Garden of Five Senses. And Janpath and Connaught Place offered a wide selection of gifts for friends and family.

  I took notes, the kids drew pictures to chronicle our Delhi adventures that quickly moved from just weekend activities to midweek afternoons when school was out of session and the temperature was cool. We discovered things that are definitely for those who live in Delhi, and a great deal more for visitors who are here for three days or three weeks. There’s something for every member of the family. There are girly-girl activities and manly-man adventures. But at the end of the day, what will prove to be particularly helpful if this guide is used properly is that parents will feel that the family had the vacation it wanted, with plenty of ‘us’ time and enough ‘kid’ time so there’s no whining at the end of the trip.

  Restaurants that offer many selections at great value with food that isn’t served in paper bags made the cut as well as those that do. This guide book moves away from backpackers’ picks to picks only parents will appreciate—a balance of fun and education. Kids will enjoy boating on lakes and following nature trails at wildlife sanctuaries; and they will learn about how Delhi came to be Delhi through visits to memorials, museums, Parliament House, India Gate, the Red Fort and much much more. There are plenty of festivals that are brimming with colour and delicacies seeped in masala. Walk around the architecture designed by Lutyens or feast on dripping paranthas at Paranthe Wali Gali. Whether you’re looking for a shopper’s paradise or to try Patanjali yoga, Delhi is the place for it.

  Chalo!

  When to Visit

  Delhi weather is one of extremes. The summer can be unbearably hot and humid with nary a breeze, unless you count the sometime frequent dust storms. And winter is cold enough to require thick sweaters, coats, hats and scarves. Delhi’s peak tourist season is when the weather in the city is quite pleasant. Spring is the best time to visit. While Delhi has a very brief period of spring in February and March (20–25°C), September to November also enjoy springlike weather (20–30°C). There is an abundance of festivals and cultural events during these months.

  Although the temperature stays in the 30s during the day, it can get cold at night in December and January, with temperatures sometimes dropping to as low as 4°C. On average though, winter temperatures range from 15 to 25°C. By the end of April, it’s hot. During the unbearable summer months of April to July, the temperature of 46° plus will require hats, buckets of sun block and an elaborate dance down the roads in an effort to hug every shady spot. Summer in north India is harsh, dry and dusty with frequent power cuts. The thought of the monsoon is appeal
ing, but the humidity intensifies the heat, making travel uncomfortable. Try to avoid the rainy season, which lasts from July to September (30–35°C) and can result in flooded roads.

  Get Your Bearings

  The National Capital Territory of Delhi is divided into nine districts. They are the Central, North, South, East, West, Northeast, Southeast, Northwest, and Southwest districts.

  Central Delhi

  Central Delhi is the hub of many tourist attractions, commerce and politics. Many historical monuments and attractions can be found here, such as Jantar Mantar (see If You Have to be a Tourist, pp.102–3), Janpath Market (see Shopping, p.166) and St James Church.

  North Delhi

  North Delhi comprises the area between Delhi Gate and Kashmere Gate, Shah Jahanabad, is a spider web crowded with winding lanes bulging with big wholesale markets, such as the one in Khari Baoli. It also has middle-class residential areas with the chaotic markets of Paharganj and is home to Delhi University.

  South Delhi/Southeast Delhi

  Considered to be one of the most posh areas of the city, it has some of the best stores, restaurants, hotels, tourist attractions, markets and monuments. Despite Delhi’s congestion, south Delhi has the greenest space in the entire city. Many monuments are found here including Humayun’s Tomb, Qutab Minar, and Tughlaqabad. Newer attractions like the Lotus Temple (see If You Have to be a Tourist, p.104) and the Sports Complex at Siri Fort (see Playground Paradise, p.75) can also be found here.

  West Delhi/Northwest Delhi

  The western areas mainly consist of residential areas. Numerous trendy restaurants have come up in recent years.

  East Delhi/Northeast Delhi

  This consists of the residential districts of Preet Vihar, Gandhi Nagar, Vivek Vihar and Shahdara.

  Some Health Precautions

  The term ‘Delhi belly’ isn’t part of the gastronomic landscape for nothing. While Delhi boasts of a variety of delicious cuisines from five-star hotel restaurants to roadside chaat stands, one should always take precautions before trying anything. Buy bottled water or request filtered water at restaurants. Don’t buy that slice of coconut being sold by the hawker at traffic lights. You will be eating the fumes from the cars, and you don’t know the source of the water that is being used to keep the coconut from drying out. The most annoying thing is to fall ill and spend more time in the bathroom than at the Red Fort. Diseases from food and water are the chief cause of illness among travellers.

  Some invaluable tips on hygiene:

  Wash your hands often with soap and water, especially before eating. If soap and water are not available, use an alcohol-based hand gel.

  Avoid dairy products, unless you know they have been pasteurized.

  Unless you have spent every waking moment of your life in India and have spent the vast majority of your time eating from the roadside vendors, avoid roadside food like the plague or you may end up with what feels like the plague when your stomach starts cramping. But having said that, if that parantha for Rs 10 is calling your name, at least survey the surrounding area to make sure it is clean and hygienic and that all food is fully cooked.

  Never ever drink water from the roadside stalls. Insist on bottled water from well-known brands such as Catch, Kingfisher, Evian, Aquafina, Bisleri etc. Also, make sure that the seal of the bottle is intact when you are given the bottle. Do not accept a bottle that was not opened in front of you. Water is not safe to drink directly from the tap. Boiled or filtered water is a good alternative to bottled water. Avoid tap water and ice cubes unless you are being served in a reputable restaurant.

  Do not eat cut fruits and vegetables or drink fresh juice from roadside stalls.

  Always carry mosquito repellent, especially during the summer. Make a habit of wearing light-cotton long-sleeved shirts and pants. Not only will they protect you from the sun, but also from the mosquito bites. The most popular local mosquito repellent which comes in a lotion and cream is Odomos. It can be found at most chemist and corner shops. The latest mosquito fighting tool is a patch that can be worn on clothing. This will be handy for parents who are wary of lathering their children in creams that need to be applied frequently.

  Drink lots of fluids during the summer months; again be mindful of the source of the water.

  Also, to prevent sunburn and heat stroke in the summer, apply sunscreen lotion and wear caps or hats, respectively.

  Some Safety Precautions

  In any big city, especially one the size of New Delhi, it is important to consider personal safety, especially when you’re a tourist or new to the city.

  Moms and dads had best be mindful of the luggage. Unless you need help with heavy suitcases, don’t let your luggage cart be commandeered by strangers like luggage porters or agents once you leave the airport or railway station and head to the taxi stand.

  Only use official taxi stands because you pre-pay based on your destination and will not be at the mercy of the driver who may take you for a tour of the city.

  Always keep your belongings in sight, especially in open areas like restaurants, snack bars, parks, and even in the event’s venue. Don’t leave backpacks, purses, bags, photo or video cameras hanging on chairs or on the floor. Carry sturdy bags with zip closings and keep them zipped. Flimsy bags are targeted, especially at markets, where they can easily be slashed in order for the contents to fall to the ground. It’s important to choose a leather bag with a lining.

  Moms are well advised to keep the fancy jewellery in the hotel safe when the family’s out shopping or touring.

  Try not to carry large amounts of cash. If you do carry cash, carry small bills as you don’t have to make change and can bargain harder holding a Rs 50 note instead of a Rs 1,000 note. Avoid ATMs on streets or dark places.

  Do not share your personal data including hotel information to people you do not know. Carry a photo copy of passports or driver’s licenses. In case of loss or theft, report the incident to the police and your hotel’s front desk. Both will be able to assist you.

  Emergency contacts

  Police 100

  Fire 101

  Ambulance 102

  Accident and Trauma 1099

  Children 1098

  Women 1091

  011 2412 1234

  Seniors 1091

  1291

  Traffic 011 2301 0101

  Vigilance cell 011 2321 3355

  Delhi Police website www.delhipolice.nic.in

  Directory Assistance

  Just dial 011 2222 2222

  Directory enquiry 197

  Local assistance 199

  Talking Yellow Pages 011 2601 4444

  Publications and Websites

  To find out what’s going on in Delhi, check out TimeOut Delhi, a twice monthly publication that is likely the definitive guide for what’s happening right now. It is found at most newspaper stands. You could also look at Delhi Diary, a small weekly publication; and First City, a monthly magazine with restaurants reviews, important numbers and listings on a calendar.

  Although guidebooks, including this one, are super helpful and convenient for getting around the city, websites usually provide the most up-to-date information. It’s always helpful to log on to certain websites before heading out for the day, to find out the most current information of what’s happening in and around Delhi. You’ll find loads of restaurant reviews, films, children’s events etc. They are by no means comprehensive, but they give you tastier opinions and the address and phone numbers of places. For useful services you might want to look up asklaila.com or d4delhi.com, and for a comprehensive list of what’s going in Delhi (and seven other cities) log on to buzzintown.com. The following websites will certainly give the family a few excellent ideas how to make its day out a truly enjoyable one.

  www.burrp.com: Re
staurant reviews. Listings can be sent to your mobile phone.

  www.delhievents.com: Has section devoted to events and workshops for kids.

  www.bookmyshow.com: Online booking site for movies and sometimes has events listed for children.

  www.afindia.org/delhi/calendar.htm: The Alliance Francaise screens movies with English subtitles and hosts melas, wine tastings, barbecues etc.

  India Habitat Centre (http://www.indiahabitat.org/main.htm): There’s always a lot happening at the India Habitat Centre by way of cultural events, film screenings, exhibitions etc. Just click on the calendar. For children’s events and activities, visit Habitat World (www.habitatworld.com/events-kids.asp).

  www.nationalbalbhavan.nic.in: The National Bal Bhavan lists many, many children’s activities that can be attended on a drop-in basis.

  BEAUTY AND THE BEAST

  No. 1: Delhi National Zoological Park. With its abundant

  wildlife, water bodies, and picnic spots, the zoo is the

  perfect place to visit.

  Keep your little angels and mini-monsters entertained with fabulous outdoor fun in the city. From animal gazing at the Delhi National Zoological Park, picnicking in Lodhi Gardens, birdwatching in Asola Bhatti Wildlife Sanctuary and conquering Shanti Niketan’s rock climbing wall, Delhi has it all. On cool winter nights and warm summer days, discovering Delhi’s beautiful gardens and shady tree-lined parks will keep the family entertained and the kids can burn off excess energy. Delhi may seem daunting for parents travelling with young people, but its many green spaces keep both local and touring parents sane. Most parks are free and all you will really need is a blanket, snacks and free time.

  Nature, Birds and Wildlife