Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Read online

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  Core Districts

  If the crowds of tourists in the Inner Stadt are driving you camera-crazy, the Core Districts offer a series of lesser known, but just as interesting, sights that are really not as far away as they may seem on the map. These districts (numbers II-IX) are also home to the majority of local Viennese and city inhabitants and offer a modern-day flavor and diversity that may have originally seemed to fall through the cracks in the Inner Stadt cobblestone streets.

  Across the Danube canal to the east is the gritty second district, Leopoldstadt, which, although home to the overly photographed Prater Reisenrad and Augarten, is otherwise rather un-picturesque. In a C-shape around the Inner Stadt, districts III through IX fan out in a counter-clockwise direction. The third district, Landstrasse, to the south, is home to the sweeping grounds of Schloß Belvedere with the famous Klimt collection, and color-crazy, quirky Kunsthaus Wien and Hundertwasser Haus. The fourth, Weiden, and the fifth, Margareten, offer some of the greatest palate pleasures; the tasty Naschmarkt and Gumpendorfer Strasse, with their collections of cafes, restaurants, and coffeehouses, have some of the city’s best dining experiences.

  If you are booking a hostel, it’s likely you will be staying in the sixth, Mariahilf, or the seventh, Neubau. Mariahilf is named after the city’s longest shopping throroughfare, Mariahilferstr., with more H&M branches than can be counted on two hands as well as many other international chain stores, ice-cream shops, and shoe stores. The seventh district stretches west from the Museum Quartier and is refreshingly non-mainstream next to Mariahilf. Many of the city’s young artisans have set up high-end boutiques with creative clothing and jewelry, the nightlife is vibrant, and the former red-light district of Spittelberg offers some cobblestoned character to the area. Behind the Rathaus (City Hall), the eighth district of Josefstadt is a comparatively quiet residential area, with the exception of the nightlife hot spot along the Gürtel (the Belt Road). Here, the bars are built into the structure of the Stadtbahn, where the U6 runs, creating a funky underground vibe where DJs spin and the drinking never ends. Alsergrund, the ninth district, is mainly home to the university campus and a wealthier enclave. The spectacular spires of Votivkirche accompany some more notable museums, including the Lichenstein.

  Outer Districts

  The Outer Districts (numbers X and up) encircle the core districts starting from the south in a clockwise direction and include far fewer sights and way more locals. Welcome to suburbia, baby. The southernmost districts, Simmering (XI), Favoriten (X), and Meidling (XII) are not terribly interesting and are generally avoided by tourists, with the exception of the Zentralfriedhof. Locals consider these blue-collar neighborhoods the underbelly of the city, and this may be the only area with the potential for danger.

  By far the most popular draw for tourists in the Outer Districts are the grounds and imperial rooms of Schloß Schonbrunn in the 13th, one of the most spectacular sights in the whole city. In the 14th, Otto Wagner’s Kirche am Steinhof glistens among a backdrop of green hillside in one of the city’s wealthier districts, Hietzing.

  Just beyond the Gürtel in the 15th and 16th, a number of additional hostels lie along and around the top portion of Mariahilferstr., around Westbahhof. With the exception of the commercial Mariahilferstr., this area tends to feel either industrial or strictly residential, and even dining options become more limited. The 15th, Rudolfsheim-Funfhaus, houses much of the immigrant population, including Turks and Serbs.

  A gem of the Outer Districts is Dobling (XIX) and, in particular, the heurigers (wine taverns) of Grinzing, where you can spend an evening dining (and drinking) and arrive back in the city happily tipsy. Over the past few years, this has become a popular stop for tourists wishing to get a bit of the countryside, and so at times there is the inevitable eyesore of the coach tour buses. If you can Photoshop those out of your mental picture, Grinzing is a pleasure, with quiet tree-lined streets and cobbled plazas. There are still many fine dining options and heurigers without the tourist souvenirs; be sure to find one with a spectacular view out into the vineyards and over the Danube.

  ACCOMMODATIONS

  Inner City

  There are no budget accommodations in the Inner City. Be prepared to spend your life savings here.

  ALMA BOUTIQUE HOTEL

  Hafnersteig 7

  HOTEL

  1 533 296 10 www.hotel-alma.com

  All 26 rooms at the Alma have been newly renovated into sleek, modern singles and doubles with private baths. The decorations are “Viennese Art Noveau,” tasteful splashes of red and large designs in gold manage to be professional and not cross the line into tacky. From the flatscreen TVs and Wi-Fi to biscuits on your pillow, this hotel offers all the comforts of home and more.

  U1 or U4: Schwedenpl.; Tram #1 or 2. Breakfast included. Singles €87-122; doubles €127-188. Reception 24hr.

  PENSION PERTSCHY

  Habsburgergasse 5

  PENSION, HOTEL

  1 53 44 90 www.pertschy.com

  This pension is the closest you’ll come to living in an imperial-style room at a reasonable price. The singles and doubles (some of which can actually accommodate three or four people) are traditionally decorated with gold-trimmed cabinets and hanging chandeliers. Size varies greatly, so consider booking a superior or deluxe double room if you want extra legroom.

  U1 or U3: Stephanspl. Breakfast included. Singles €79-122; doubles €119-188. Extra bed €23-38. Reception 24hr.

  HOTEL POST

  Fleischmarkt 24

  HOTEL

  1 51 58 30 www.hotel-post-wien.at

  Mere steps away from the bustling Schwedenpl. and all the other Inner Stadt sights, these rooms are a great price for the location, especially in comparison to the other first district hotels. The hotel was recently refurbished, and the rooms feel clean, though the decor leaves something to be desired.

  U1 or U4: Schwedenpl.; Tram #1 or 2. Breakfast included. Singles €42-51, with bath €73-87; doubles €68-79/100-130; triples €87-103/120-157. Reception 24hr.

  Core Districts

  BELIEVE-IT-OR-NOT HOSTEL

  Myrthengasse 10, Apt. 14

  HOSTEL

  676 55 000 55 www.believe-it-or-not-vienna.at

  Don’t let the entrance fool you—this hostel has more spunk, character, and free stuff than you will believe. As an apartment that has been converted into a hostel, Believe-It-Or-Not has a full living room and kitchen for use, and the rooms of only four or eight beds are styled like a ski lodge. Spiral stairs lead up to the top bunks in the four-person rooms. Be sure to sign your name in gold or silver on the black furniture in the foyer—it’s the guestbook!

  Bus #48A. 8-bed dorms with shared bath €24; 4-bed dorms with private bathroom €28. Reception 8am-noon, 24hr. availability over intercom.

  WESTEND CITY HOSTEL

  Fuegergasse 3

  HOSTEL

  1 597 67 29 www.westendhostel.at

  Westend City Hostel will welcome you to Vienna with a helpful English-speaking staff and a variety of room types to choose from. Every room is different, though most have a table and chairs and all have an ensuite toilet and shower. All kinds of amenities are available...even alarm clocks for rent.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Breakfast, linens, and Wi-Fi included. 4- to 12-bed dorms €20.50-27; singles €52-70; doubles €31-44. Rates increase during summer and holidays. Reception 24hr.

  PENSION KRAML

  Brauergasse 5

  PENSION

  1 587 85 88 www.pensionkraml.at

  This family-run pension is the epitome of hospitality. All of the rooms are sparkling clean, spacious, and plush with wall-to-wall carpeting. Some have shared bath but still have a sink in the room. This prime real estate includes a buffet breakfast, and is definitely worth the extra moolah if you can afford it.

  U3: Zieglergasse or U4: Pilgramgasse. Breakfast and Wi-Fi included. Singles €35; doubles €56-66, with bath �
��76-87; triples €78/76-87; family apartment (3-5 people) €99-135. Reception 24hr.

  HAPPY HOSTEL

  Kurzgasse 2

  APARTMENTS, HOSTEL

  1 208 26 18 www.happyhostel.at

  Renting out one of Happy Hostel’s apartments will certainly make you and your group of travelers happy. The apartments have kitchens and ensuite baths as well as spacious living areas with TVs and couches. In a newer building across the street, the limited dorm rooms are more standard with bunk beds, shared bathrooms, and wooden floors.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Internet access included. 3- to 6-bed dorms €15-23, with kitchen and bath €18-27; singles €33-36; doubles €44-52/54-72; apartments €42-48 per person. Reception 24hr.

  JUGENDHERBERGE MYRTHENGASSE

  Myrthengasse 7

  HOSTEL

  1 523 63 16 www.hihostels.com

  Highly popular with HI regulars, the 3- to 4-bed dorms in this hostel book up quickly in the busy summer months. The linoleum-floor rooms are not particularly homey, but they do have a private showers (toilets in the halls) and are kept extremely clean. Lockers, great lounge spaces, and an outdoor courtyard complete this dependable hostel, and there is a hearty daily dinner offered for €6.

  Bus 48A. Reservations recommended in summer months. HI card required. Dorms €16.50-17.50; doubles €19.50-20.50. Reception 24hr.

  PANDA HOSTEL

  Kaiserstr. 77, 3rd fl.

  HOSTEL

  1 522 25 55 www.panda-vienna.at

  Located on the third floor of an apartment building, Panda Hostel feels like staying in a large apartment with dormmates. The rooms have high ceilings (with really tall bunk beds), but they are spacious and have tables, chairs, or couches for extra seating. The small kitchen has no stove, so don’t anticipate high-quality cooking, but there is a refrigerator and microwave.

  Bus 48 A. Tram #5. 2-night min. stay. 5- to 7-bed dorms €15. Reception 8am-2pm. Check-in until 11pm. Lockout 10am-2pm.

  BAG AND MAP APARTMENT GUESTHOUSE

  Wimbergasse 31

  APARTMENT

  1 957 69 34 www.bagandmap.com

  Hidden on a quiet residential street, Bag and Map Apartment Guesthouse is on the top floor of an old, traditional building. Many of the rooms are apartment style, including a convenient private kitchen for cooking. While this is not for travelers who want to meet their neighbors or make new hostel friends, you will certainly be comfortable here.

  U6: Burrgasse. Tram #18. All rooms and apartments have private bathrooms. Ring bell for reception. Doubles €52-58; triples €69-78.

  Outer Districts

  HOSTEL RUTHENSTEINER

  Robert Hamerlinggasse 24

  HOSTEL

  1 89 342 02 or 1 89 327 96 www.hostelruthensteiner.com

  With its quiet flowered courtyard, countryside-style living room, and even a bar made out of solid cherry-wood, this hostel will undoubtedly feel like home. The rooms have a rustic feel, with wood-plank doors and prints from famous Vienna artists like Klimt and Hundertwasser on the walls, and many also are off the balcony overlooking the courtyard. To add to its character and charm, there is a free book exchange and musical instruments for guest use.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Walk down Mariahilferstr. away from the train station and take a left on Haidmannsgasse. Your 1st right will be Robert Hamerlinggasse, and you will see a sign for the hostel. Wi-Fi and lockers included. Book exchange and musical instruments available. Credit card surcharge 3%. 8-bed dorms €15-20; 3- to 5-bed dorms €17-22. Doubles €25-27, with bath €28-30. Reception 24hr.

  WOMBATS CITY HOSTEL—THE LOUNGE

  Mariahilferstr. 137

  HOSTEL

  1 897 23 36 www.wombats.eu

  Just 50m from Westbahnhof, Wombat’s newest Vienna hostel is young, social, and in the know. The receptionists will gladly assist you in getting settled in your bunk, where your magnetic key card also automatically locks your locker, so you don’t have to worry about a clunky padlock. The rooms are all ensuite and immaculate—a few years ago, the Lounge was elected as the cleanest hostel worldwide. From 6pm onward, meet new friends and grab cheap drinks in the womBar downstairs.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Wi-Fi, lockers, and luggage storage included. Breakfast €4. 4- to 6-bed dorms €16-29; doubles €29-39. Reception 24hr.

  HOSTEL SCHLOßHERBERGE

  Savoyenstr. 2

  HOSTEL

  1 481 0300 www.hostel.at

  Located on the outskirts of the District XVI on the grounds of an old palace, this hostel is certainly not your average city hostel. Heck, it’s practically in the woods, as you will see when you take the bus to the top of the hill, after also riding the U-Bahn. The large grassy space overlooks the city, with plenty of room for sunbathing, a volleyball net, and even a minigolf course. The rooms are all ensuite, with bunks and locker space. Keep your fingers crossed that you end up in one of the first-floor rooms with the doors that open directly onto the lawn with the spectacular view.

  U3: Ottakring. From the stop, take Bus 46A or 146A: Schloß Wilhelminenberg Breakfast, parking and Wi-Fi included. Notify reception if you plan to arrive after 10pm. 4-bed dorms €19-27; 3-bed dorms €22-32.50. Singles €50-60; doubles €57-73.

  DO STEP INN

  Felberstr. 20

  PENSION, HOSTEL

  699 19 23 27 69 www.dostepinn.at

  Many of these double and triple rooms have beds with frames (no bunks!), lending this pension the professionalism of a hotel. The rooms are all ensuite and have sparkling new wood flooring, yet, possibly to some inconvenience, you must rent by the room, not by the bed. The common spaces and kitchens are adorned with colorful mosaics and potted plants that emphasize the old-style building and spiral staircase. While the locale is not ideal, the walk to more bustling streets is not too strenuous.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Exit from the upper platform, turn left on Felberstr. Luggage storage, lockers, and Wi-Fi included. Credit card surcharge 4%. Singles €35-39, with bath €45-49.50; doubles €44-48.40/52-70; triples €51-55.50/66-75; quads €60-66/75.60-76.60. Reception open daily 8am-9pm. Ring bell for entrance.

  WOMBATS CITY HOSTEL—THE BASE

  Grangasse 6

  HOSTEL

  1 897 23 36 www.wombats.eu

  The original Wombats hostel in Vienna is a few blocks off Mariahilferstr., and is not quite as shiny and spunky as its younger sibling. The bright blue building feels a bit grittier, with darker masculine tones and slightly smaller rooms, though the cleanliness standard is still A+. The Base has all the same perks as the Lounge (Wi-Fi, ensuite rooms, etc.), and as an added bonus, there is a terrace bar to enjoy drinks outside on warm summer nights.

  U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Follow Mariahilferstr. until no. 152, then turn right into Rosinagasse. Take your second left. Wi-Fi in common spaces, lockers, and luggage storage included. Breakfast €3.50. 4- to 6-bed dorms €14-29; doubles €50-78; triples €60-87. Reception 24hr.

  HOSTEL HUTTELDORF

  Schloßberggasse 8

  HOSTEL

  1 877 02 63 www.hostel.at

  Located off the western end of the U4 line, Hostel Hutteldorf is not for party animals who plan on having late nights (unless, of course, you are a party animal that will keep going until the Ubahn opens the next morning at 5am). The majority of the four- to six-bed rooms are located in the high-rise building that has views of the city and the hills, and it’s worth booking ahead to reserve this rather than being stuck in the 20-bed dorm (which is, strangely enough, the same price as the 6 bed-dorm). The hostel highlight is the large grassy backyard lawn surrounded by trees—great for a lazy afternoon of sleeping and sunbathing.

  U4: Hutteldorf. Exit to Hadikgasse, then follow the signs to the hostel. Wi-Fi, luggage storage, lockers, and breakfast included. 6- or 20-bed dorms €13-22; 4-bed dorms €16-27; 3-bed dorms €17.50-30. Singles €28-50; doubles €40-72. Reception 24hr.

  A AND O WIEN

  Lerchenfelder Gürtel 9-11

&nb
sp; HOSTEL

  1 49 30 480 39 00 www.aohostels.com

  The Vienna branch of A and O’s hostel chain is located on the busy Gürtel road, closer to the outskirts of the city. Inside, don’t expect coziness; the rooms are basic with metal-framed bunks and lockers in a tall high-rise building. Luckily, the large windows offer plenty of light and air. Despite the lack of homey decor, A and O does offer all the other necessities such as Wi-Fi, luggage storage, easy bike rental, and plenty of brochures to guide you around the city.

  U6: Burggasse Stadthalle. Breakfast €4. 8- to 10-bed dorms from €12, with bath from €13; 4- to 6-bed dorms from €13/15; doubles with bath €25; singles with bath €39. Reception 24hr.

  HOTEL HADRIGAN

  Maroltingergasse 68