The Pawfect Guide to Thinking Like a Dog Read online

  103.INSTINCTS

  Foraging and scavenging are normal dog behaviors that allow a dog to engage its instincts. These behaviors can develop into problems if the dog chews or swallows items that are not suitable. With training, your dog can learn to sniff out interesting items on cue, and be distracted from those things that may cause harm.

  104.BE KIND

  Training methods such as punishment and shock collars are strongly linked to behavioral problems, either creating or escalating adverse emotional reactions. Animals have a right to live free from pain and fear. Smacking, shouting, or using an electric shock in attempts to train animals create negative responses and are outdated and unnecessary.

  105.HEARING

  A dog’s hearing sensitivity can create noise phobias, where the dog is startled by sudden or loud sounds. Noise can even be painful. A dog must become used to everyday noises, which may be unsettling at first. Preparations should be made to relax and protect your dog during firework season.

  106.SCENT

  This is a dog’s primary sense, but it can lead a dog astray if a tempting scent appears. If there is a female in heat nearby, this can lead to barking and frustration in some male dogs. A dog interprets scent in great detail, leaving the humans uncertain why the animal is reacting when nothing visible is apparent.

  107.HEALTHY WALKS

  The walks a dog takes should allow him or her to perform important behaviors, such as foraging and exploration, scenting the environment, using personal scent markers, and enjoying companionship with other dogs and humans.

  108.NOT ENOUGH EXERCISE

  The 2016 PDSA Animal Wellbeing (PAW) Report indicated that very few dogs actually get regularly exercised. Every dog needs a walk at least twice a day. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog!

  109.TRAIN PUPPIES

  A puppy rarely grows out of early behaviors. Redirecting and training a young dog, using positive reinforcement methods, reduces the risk of the development of behavioral issues. Start at the earliest opportunity, as your dog will always learn something, whether or not it is useful learning.

  PICKING A PUPPY

  110.PICK ME!

  So you’ve found a breeder you’re happy with, and now it’s time to pick your actual puppy. You can just ask the breeder to pick one for you out of the melee, but it’s worth going to see the litter as soon as the breeder will allow it to make sure you’re happy. This dog will hopefully be part of your family for around fifteen years, so you need to be sure!

  111.IS SHE THE MOTHER?

  When you go to the house, look for signs that the mother is actually the mother. Puppy dealers sometimes pretend. Has she bonded with the puppies? Does she have swollen mammary glands?

  112.MALE OR FEMALE?

  You may well already have a very clear idea about which sex to pick, or you may not be bothered. Some diseases are more common in males, and others in females, but there are other things to consider. Neutering a female is more expensive and involves more surgery than taking care of a male. Also consider the possible behavioral differences covered in our behavior section.

  113.HYGIENE

  When you go to see your puppy, the house should be clean and welcoming. Good hygiene is very important. Try to get a feel for the health of the mother as well as the litter. Do they all look well fed and have shiny coats?

  114.FOOD AND WATER

  Can you see food and clean water available? Even if the puppies are too young to have food yet, all nursing mothers should have access to good-quality puppy food at all times. This is so they can meet the energy needs of feeding their brood.

  115.VISITS

  Breeders should be happy for you to visit as many times as you want to, within reason. Don’t get bullied into handing over your money and taking the puppy that day. Be suspicious if they do this. It may be a sign of a puppy farm.

  116.PREVENTATIVE HEALTH

  Good breeders should be open about the vaccine and worm treatments they use for both the mother and the puppies, and show you certificates if the puppy is old enough to have had its first vaccine. Make sure you ask.

  117.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS

  There are certain things you should look for in a puppy that are signs of good health, besides being well nourished. Check these things each time you visit your puppy to make sure they are consistently good:

  118.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #1: MOVEMENT

  Your puppy should be moving around normally, with no signs of lameness or other issues. If your puppy is asleep every time you go, this could be a sign of ill health. If the breeder always hands you the puppy to hold, put your puppy down so you can see how it moves.

  119.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #2: EYES

  Your puppy should have bright, clear eyes unless it is still tiny and the eyes are still shut. If there is a lot of discharge or if the eyes are red or swollen, do not take the puppy. Make sure the eyelids are not rolled in on the surface of the eye or drooping down.

  120.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #3: NOSE

  Not all noses are wet and shiny, but it’s a good sign if they are. Look out for sneezing or mucus, as these could be signs of problems or of a generally weak puppy.

  121.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #4: EARS

  Ears should be clean and not smelly. Head shaking, scratching, and signs of wax or debris in the ears could indicate ear mites or infections.

  122.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #5: COAT

  The fur should be clean and shiny. Look out for scabs, black dots that could be a sign of fleas, and bald patches. Frequent scratching could also be a sign of problems.

  123.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #6: BOTTOMS!

  Your puppy’s bottom should be clean and free of poop. If it’s dirty, this could be a sign of diarrhea or of a sickly mother that isn’t cleaning her puppies properly.

  124.PUPPY HEALTH CHECKS #7: BREATHING

  Your puppy should be breathing silently and with no signs of labored breathing. If you hear snoring, snorting, or wheezing, do not take that puppy. It’s not normal!

  125.CONTRACTS

  Look into puppy contracts in your country. Any breeders who won’t sign contracts to say they’ve done all they can for the health of the puppies should be avoided.

  126.PUPPY INFORMATION

  Look out for online puppy information packs and guidance notes that help arm you with all the questions you should ask your breeder. Make sure you stay in charge of your decisions.

  127.NEW HOME

  Bringing a new puppy into your family is a huge responsibility. It is very easy to find puppies for sale, but quality well-bred puppies with good health and essential early socialization are hard to find. Prepare to spend several months searching for a good-quality puppy.

  128.ADVERTISING

  Online advertisements will always show attractive photos of cute puppies. The images do not show the reality of puppy farming or the kind of poor care that affects puppy behavior. Puppies must be raised in a home environment if they are to settle into one.

  129.SEE THE FAMILY!

  Ask to see the puppy with its mother. This helps you to meet her and see how she behaves. A good breeder will proudly show you the father dog, older siblings, and other relatives. This is the best way to work out how your puppy will be.

  130.CHOICE OF PUP

  Aim to see the whole litter at least three times before choosing. This gives you the chance to see the pups when they are alert as well as tired. Look for play. Do the pups interact with each other and with people?

  131.PUPPY TYPE

  Ask the breeder to tell you about the pups, as he or she should want the puppy to have a good, suitable home. Avoid the extremes of behavior, for example a very quiet puppy or a very boisterous one. Try to pick one that has a bit of each quality.

  132.ASSESSMENT

  Take each puppy into a separate room and see how it behaves. If the puppy panics, this might not be a good sign. If the puppy shows no signs of worry and mouths you hard, again, this may not be desirable. Look for a puppy whose behavio
r you feel comfortable with.

  133.TWO PUPS?

  Avoid the temptation to take two puppies at once. Experienced professional trainers advise against this. Young dogs take a lot of work and time to help them learn how to behave in a human setting. This becomes even harder as they reach adolescence.

  134.EXTRA PROBLEMS

  Taking two puppies at once prevents thorough training and socialization. They often bond strongly without letting humans into the relationship. This creates problems with separation distress and control. Each dog needs separate training, no matter what the circumstances are.

  135.OLDER DOGS

  Aim to choose a puppy that will be compatible with your older dog, if you have one. If your older dog is in pain or otherwise feeling poorly, he or she will not appreciate a young, exuberant puppy. Ideally, consider that each dog will need its own space, own walks, and own feeding areas.

  136.DON’T BUY

  Be prepared to walk away from any litter you aren’t comfortable with. This takes a lot of strength. However, it is rarely possible to fix a puppy that has been poorly bred and poorly socialized. You will have a dog for about 15 years, and that commitment means you should also spend your time choosing the one you really want.

  137.PUPPY CHOICE

  Avoid just taking the puppy that chooses you. This is likely to be the boldest puppy in the litter, and that dog may not suit your family. Ignore coat colors and markings, and look instead for the puppy whose temperament you feel is most attractive to you.

  MUTILATIONS

  138.WHERE IN THE WORLD?

  Different countries have very different laws about what is considered a mutilation. Regardless of the laws, chopping bits off dogs because some people think they look better like that is unnecessary and cruel. Leave your dogs as nature intended!

  139.DEW CLAWS

  Dogs can have dew claws on their front and back legs. On the hind legs, these claws are sometimes very floppy and not firmly attached—the back ones have no use and not all dogs have them. Some people ask for them to be removed at birth or at neutering.

  140.DOGGY THUMBS!

  When you watch dogs chewing toys or food chews, they use their front dew claws, a bit like we use our thumbs, to help hold things. The dew claws occasionally get snagged, but this can be dealt with when that happens. The claws don’t need to be removed ahead of time just in case!

  141.EAR CROPPING

  This is illegal in many countries but definitely still goes on in lots of places. People think cropped ears make dogs look tougher. Ear cropping is an unnecessary mutilation and should never be done.

  142.TAIL DOCKING

  This is where part or all of the puppy’s tail is cut off within a few days of birth or has an elastic band put on until it falls off. Tail docking is very painful and almost always done with no anesthetic.

  143.BREED

  Being a certain breed isn’t an excuse to have a body part amputated for no reason. Just because some breeds are traditionally docked doesn’t mean you have to accept that. Look for a breeder that doesn’t dock tails.

  144.COMMUNICATION

  Dogs’ tails are used for balance, but tails are also really important for communicating with other dogs. Docked animals sometimes draw aggression from other dogs and frighten people because their mood is unclear.

  145.PREVENTING INJURY

  This is a poor argument for tail docking. Any dogs can occasionally hurt their tails, and some will need their tails amputated in later life. BUT docking injures EVERY dog in the worst way and is not justified.

  146.COMPLICATIONS

  Tail docking can cause phantom pain, painful neuromas where the nerves have been cut, spinal infections, and poor growth for a time afterward. Some puppies will bleed to death.

  147.SPEAK IN ADVANCE

  Because docking is done when the puppies are so very young, you will need to tell your breeder beforehand if you want your puppy to keep this very important part of its body. Preferably, don’t choose a breeder who docks in the first place!

  PUPPY DEVELOPMENT

  148.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES

  There are stages that mark developmental levels, but these vary from one puppy to the next. The stages are described in time-sensitive periods that may overlap rather than be clearly defined. A puppy’s experience during these stages can form its responses in adult life.

  149.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #1: PRENATAL (BEFORE BIRTH)

  Before birth, the mother’s experiences of stress or other conditions may influence the unborn puppy.

  150.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #2: NEONATAL (BIRTH TO 2 WEEKS)

  At this stage, the pups are completely dependent on their mother for food, warmth, and safety. The mother dog licks the pups to stimulate them to “go.” Scent and touch help the pups to learn, and they seek to suckle for food.

  151.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #3: TRANSITIONAL (2 TO 3 WEEKS)

  Pups begin to stand and walk, a little shakily at first, but can gradually start to pass water and defecate independently, away from the nest. Puppies begin to play with their siblings, wag their tails, and may even growl!

  152.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #4: AT 18 TO 20 DAYS

  The pup’s ear canals and their eyes open, and the puppy startles at noises. The puppy moves around a lot more and will make vocalizations when separated from the mother.

  153.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #5: SOCIALIZATION (3 TO 13 WEEKS)

  At this stage, the puppies learn a great deal about their world. Their behavioral development is at its most rapid, and they must experience a wide range of situations if they are to cope with the many challenges facing a pet dog.

  154.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #6: JUVENILE (13 WEEKS TO ADULT)

  Having already begun to form social and emotional attachments, the puppy’s strength and skills develop further. This period lasts until the pup reaches sexual maturity. Social maturity takes significantly longer to develop.

  155.PUPPY DEVELOPMENT STAGES #7: ADULTHOOD (6 TO 18 MONTHS ONWARD)

  This stage is highly dependent on breed. Adolescence can be a challenging time, as the growing puppy is still learning the rules of daily life while also appearing to be fully grown. Young dogs at the early stage of adulthood need careful guidance.

  SOCIALIZATION AND HABITUATION

  156.EARLY SOCIALIZATION

  Taking care with this step prevents a young puppy from fearing the world. This care must begin as early as five weeks of age, while the puppy is still with its mother. Gentle handling while the pup is alert and being reared in a home help the pup to adjust to the human world.

  157.FAMILIAR AND UNFAMILIAR

  Social contact must be established early, while the puppy is still learning to tell the difference between familiar and safe situations and unfamiliar or unsafe situations. The contact must vary a great deal, so that the puppy can meet new experiences with confidence.

  158.HABITUATION

  This describes how pups get used to surroundings and learn that they are part of life, by becoming familiar with what happens in the background. For example, puppies learn to ignore the noise of the refrigerator or washing machine just by being around these machines.

  159.SOCIALIZATION

  This consists of multiple components. Puppies are exposed gently to many types of people, dogs, and other pets, such as cats or even livestock, so that they become familiar with these variations. Contact is restricted until the puppies are fully vaccinated.

  160.OUTDOORS

  The puppy should be encouraged to become used to traveling in the car, hearing and seeing other traffic, being in new places, and walking on new surfaces, such as gravel on a driveway or sand at a beach, once the young dog is fully vaccinated.

  161.POSITIVE EXPERIENCES

  When the puppy is around exciting, new situations, some parts of the experiences can be scary. Allow the pup time to explore, and offer comfort as well as small pieces of food, to increase feelings of safety and enjoyment. Keep sessions s
hort and fun, giving the puppy time to rest.

  162.TIMING OF SOCIALIZATION

  The period during which puppies are most sensitive to learning of this kind is around 8 to 12 weeks of age. This critical period cannot be replaced, and it is crucial that the owner, or the breeder, takes responsibility for this social learning.

  163.INFECTION RISK

  Although a pup has not yet had its full vaccinations, socialization must not be delayed. Carry your puppy and ensure your companion is not in contact with unvaccinated dogs or other infection risks. Do not delay socialization, but simply observe and account for risks associated with disease.

  164.FAILURE TO SOCIALIZE

  Puppies that are not socialized can suffer severe problems in later life. Without socialization, hypersensitivity to new events, as well as fearful reactions, can create long-term stress. Remedial socialization is constantly required and cannot replace the early opportunity to learn.

  165.MIXING WITH OTHER DOGS

  Well-socialized pups have had the chance to play with dogs of all shapes, colors, and sizes. Puppies play together quite roughly, but adult dogs will teach new puppies the social rules of play without injuring them. This self-handicapping play means new pups are taught the rules gently but firmly.

  166.CHILDREN ARE FUN!

  Children can move quickly, can be loud and shrill, and can play roughly and hug and kiss puppies in ways an older dog might not tolerate. Just as puppies have to learn human rules through early social contact, children must learn how to be sensible around dogs, too.