The Purrfect Guide to Thinking Like a Cat Read online

  115.DON’T BUY

  Be prepared to walk away from any litter that makes you uncomfortable. This takes a lot of strength. However, it is rarely possible to fix a kitten that has been poorly bred and poorly socialized. You could have a cat for around 15 years, and with that kind of commitment, you should spend adequate time choosing.

  116.KITTEN CHOICE

  Ideally, your kitten should like to be around you and interact with you. This behavior has to be learned between the first three to seven weeks of life. Beyond this window of time, the kitten may tolerate contact but will find it very stressful.

  KITTEN DEVELOPMENT

  117.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES

  These rapid developmental levels vary from one kitten to the next. They are described in time-sensitive periods that may overlap rather than be clearly defined. A kitten’s experiences during these stages can form its responses in adult life.

  118.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #1: 0 TO 2 WEEKS

  The kitten is dependent on the mother’s milk for nutrition. The teeth start to erupt, and the eyes open, but the kitten has limited responses to touch, warmth, or smells.

  119.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #2: 3 TO 4 WEEKS

  Now the kitten’s vision begins to play an important role. The kitten starts to walk but is a little wobbly still! The mother cat begins to offer solid food, such as live prey, as her kitten starts to wean, or stop relying only on her milk.

  120.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #3: 5 TO 6 WEEKS

  Already the kitten can run for short distances. The kitten begins to kill prey and will relieve itself without needing stimulation from the mother.

  121.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #4: 7 TO 8 WEEKS

  The kitten is nearly fully weaned from the mother cat. It will react to threats by startling, as an adult cat might, and will begin identifying potentially scary situations.

  122.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #5: 10 TO 11 WEEKS

  At this point, the kitten can perform complex movements and activities. This is when you start to find your kitten running up and down the drapes!

  123.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #6: 12 TO 16 WEEKS

  Now the kitten’s eyesight improves even further and can spot movement very easily. You will notice the kitten pouncing on toys with more accuracy.

  124.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #7: 5 MONTHS

  From this age onward and sometimes earlier, the kitten is considered to be at sexual maturity, but neutering is better done before this age to prevent unwanted pregnancy.

  125.KITTEN DEVELOPMENT STAGES #8: 18 MONTHS

  Your kitten has continued to develop but isn’t considered to be socially mature until around this age. This immaturity may not affect humans but will be a big part of your kitten’s interactions with other cats.

  SOCIALIZATION AND HABITUATION

  126.EARLY SOCIALIZATION

  To prevent a young kitten from fearing the world, socialization should begin in a home as early as three weeks after birth, while the kitten is still with its mother. Exposure to gentle handling and the features of the human world should happen while the kitten is alert.

  127.FAMILIAR AND UNFAMILIAR

  Social contact must be established early, while the kitten is still learning to tell the difference between familiar, safe situations and unfamiliar, unsafe situations. It must vary a great deal so that the kitten can meet new experiences with confidence.

  128.HABITUATION OR SOCIAL REFERENCING

  These terms describe how a kitten gets used to its surroundings, learning that these places and events are part of daily life. For example, a kitten learns to ignore the noise of the refrigerator and washing machine just by being around them.

  129.SOCIALIZATION

  This step has multiple components. Kittens need to be exposed gently to people, other cats, and other kinds of pets especially, so that they become familiar with these variations.

  130.OUTDOOR ENVIRONMENTAL FEATURES

  Introducing outdoor sounds and sights is part of socialization. The kitten gets used to traveling in the car and hearing everyday noises without finding these situations frightening.

  131.POSITIVE EXPERIENCES

  When the kitten is exposed to exciting new situations, some places and events can can appear scary at first. Allow the kitten time to explore, and offer comfort and small pieces of food to increase feelings of safety and enjoyment. Keep sessions short and fun, giving the kitten time to rest.

  132.TIMING OF SOCIALIZATION

  The period during which kittens are most sensitive to learning about new situations and places is around 7 weeks of age. This critical period cannot be replaced, and it is crucial that the owner, or the breeder, takes responsibility for this social learning.

  133.INFECTION RISK

  Although kittens have not yet had their full vaccinations, their socialization must not be delayed. Ensure your kitten is not in contact with unvaccinated cats or other infection risks. But do not delay social contact. Simply observe the risks associated with disease.

  134.PROBLEMS IN LATER LIFE

  Kittens that are not socialized risk not being able to integrate as adults, causing them to fight and to suffer stress-related diseases due to fears, such as Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD), immunosuppression, and skin diseases.

  135.FAILURE TO SOCIALIZE

  Without socialization, a cat’s hypersensitivity to every new event and its fearful reactions create long-term stress. Remedial socialization is constantly required. There is no replacement for the early opportunity to learn.

  136.IDEAL SOCIAL CONTACT

  To give a kitten the best opportunity to learn about life, four or more people of all types must handle it. People of various ages, genders, and appearances must be able to play with the kitten.

  137.KITTEN HANDLING

  If you are going to invite people to handle young kittens, wait until the kittens are alert and want to join in, so that they can enjoy themselves!

  138.HOW BEST TO PLAY

  Have fun talking to the kitten, gently touching its body, holding the kitten, and playing together with toys, too!

  139.MIXING WITH OTHER ANIMALS

  Well-socialized kittens can play happily with other kittens and cats, if they wish, but also with other animals, such as dogs, chickens, and rabbits. Ensure the animals don’t see each other as toys or prey, and don’t allow them to chase each other!

  140.CHILDREN ARE FUN!

  Children can move quickly and be loud and shrill. They can play roughly and hug and kiss kittens in ways an older cat might not tolerate. Just as kittens have to learn human rules through early social contact, children must learn how to be sensible around cats, too.

  141.CAT CARRIERS

  Your kitten is going to need to be transported safely, so make sure this is a fun experience. Add treats inside the cat carrier so your kitten climbs inside and gets used to being lifted off the ground while enjoying the goodies inside.

  142.COLLAR AND HARNESS?

  If you are going to keep your kitten as an indoor cat, you will need to get it accustomed to walking with a special cat collar and harness when you take it outside. Be gentle, and allow your kitten to eat favorite treats at the same time.

  FEEDING KITTENS

  143.TRUE CARNIVORES

  Cats are true or obligate carnivores. In the wild, they have to eat meat to get all their essential amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins. Adult cats need twice as much protein as adult dogs.

  144.HUNTING

  Cats are predators, and even if they are well fed, they may still hunt. Hunting isn’t driven by hunger alone. It is a basic instinct. Cats will even stop eating a kill to chase something else if the opportunity arises.

  145.TEMPERATURE

  Because cats are built to eat freshly killed animals, they prefer food that’s about body temperature. They won’t mind room temperature food, but lots of cats won’t eat cold food, such as food that’s kept in the fridge.

  146.KITTENS

 
; Kittens’ nutritional needs differ from those of adult cats because they need to grow as well as meet their everyday energy needs. Growing is hard work! Kittens reach adulthood at around 10 to 12 months of age.

  147.WET OR DRY

  If at all possible, you should feed your cat both wet and dry food. A cat can easily become hooked on textures. Later in life, your cat may need to eat wet food. For example, there may be bladder issues. You may need to offer dry food if finances get tight. If you get your kitten used to both, it could really help.

  148.BALANCED

  It’s very important to feed complete and balanced kitten food. Home cooking can be done, but it’s actually very difficult to make sure a homemade diet meets all the exact needs for growth and tiptop development. Ask your vet to recommend a balanced kitten food.

  149.RAW

  There is currently a trend to feed raw foods. This carries a significant public health risk for humans and can make your cat ill. There is a chance of bacterial contamination, such as salmonella and campylobacter. It’s a high risk to feed raw foods.

  150.ENERGY

  Kittens need food with more energy or calories in it to ensure they have what they need to grow. However, it’s still very important not to overfeed kittens, as obesity is very common nowadays.

  151.PROTEIN

  Kitten foods should have 30 to 50 percent protein for optimum health. This is measured on what’s called a dry matter (DM) basis. Wet and dry foods can be compared directly only on a DM basis.

  152.FAT

  Fat is needed for energy, to help transport some vitamins, and also to provide fatty acids that cats can’t make. The ideal range of fat for growing kittens is 18 to 35 percent. Don’t overdo this, because your kittens could get too fat.

  153.FATTY ACIDS

  Fatty acids are absolutely essential for lots of reasons. In growing kittens, fatty acids are very important for the development of the brain and nervous system, the retinas in their eyes, and for optimal hearing.

  154.MINERALS

  Calcium and phosphorous are vital for growing kittens, and balanced kitten foods have very specific amounts of these nutrients. The balance is key. Kittens that are fed all-meat diets can have severe growth problems. Too much calcium is also a problem.

  155.MILK AND WATER

  After weaning, kittens and cats need only water to drink. Lots of people like to offer cow’s milk, but this can cause bloating and diarrhea in some cats, so this is best avoided.

  156.NORMAL EATING

  In the wild, a cat eats 10 to 20 small meals a day, and its digestive system has evolved to accommodate this. Once your kitten is past the need for ad lib feeding, try to offer 6 to 8 meals per day. Timer feeders are very useful for this.

  157.NORMAL DRINKING

  Cats like wide water bowls, filled to the brim. This way they can avoid dipping their heads in the bowl, which makes them feel vulnerable. It also avoids their whiskers touching the sides of the bowl, which they find unpleasant.

  158.WATER LOCATION

  Cats in the wild don’t usually drink water that is near their food because it could be contaminated by any dead animal they have found or killed. If you have room, place the water away from the food, and preferably offer several different bowls around the house.

  VACCINATION

  159.SAFETY FIRST

  Reactions to vaccines can happen, but they are incredibly rare compared with the number of vaccines given globally. Vaccinations have saved millions and millions of animal and human lives all over the world.

  160.WHICH VACCINES?

  The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) has a panel of experts who regularly review vaccination needs and safety. The WSAVA website has some really useful guidelines for owners, breeders, and anyone else who may be interested!

  161.ESSENTIAL

  Some vaccines are called core vaccines, and these are considered essential for every cat no matter where in the world they are. The non-core vaccines vary, depending on country and also the individual cat’s lifestyle and risk.

  162.MOM’S THE WORD

  Mothers, or queens, as mother cats are sometimes called, that have been vaccinated will pass on some immunity to their kittens. This protects the kittens in the first few weeks of life, but it also stops vaccines from working. That’s why vaccines start after the age of 6 weeks.

  163.DEAD OR ALIVE

  In general, there are two types of vaccines, dead or alive. They can also be referred to as noninfectious and infectious. Dead vaccines usually need repeating more frequently because they don’t cause a big immune reaction.

  164.FELINE PARVOVIRUS

  Feline parvovirus (FPV) is an extremely serious disease with a high death rate. It causes various signs, such as diarrhea, blood changes, and weakened immunity. It’s a very tough virus that lasts for years in the environment.

  165.CAT FLU

  This is what most people call the signs often caused by feline herpes virus (FHV) and feline calicivirus (FCV). These are the most important viruses, as they can cause death, especially in kittens. Common signs are runny eyes and nose. This can develop into pneumonia.

  166.RABIES

  Rabies is a massive killer of animals and humans in many areas of the world. The disease is spread when an infected animal bites another animal. Most commonly, this disease is found in dogs and bats. Rabies attacks the brain and causes many signs, including twitching, confusion, fear of water, and coma. It is nearly always fatal. You must follow the rabies vaccination rules of your country.

  167.CORE

  Every kitten should be vaccinated against FPV, FHV, and FCV. The first dose is usually given at 8 to 10 weeks of age and is then repeated at 12 and 16 weeks. A booster should then be given at 6 months or 1 year of age.

  168.BOOSTERS

  The FPV vaccine produces a strong reaction and needs a booster every three years. For FHV and FCV, the need depends on your cat’s lifestyle. Talk to your vet. Your cat may need a yearly booster, or you may need to get one every two or three years.

  169.FELV AND FIV

  Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) are also very important and deadly diseases. You can vaccinate for FeLV, and in a few countries, FIV. It’s essential to test cats for these diseases so that we can try to eradicate these illnesses.

  170.OVER-VACCINATION

  If you have concerns about over-vaccination, talk to your vet. Sometimes you can have a blood test done to see if your cat needs a particular vaccine. It is important to vaccinate, because the whole population relies on it.

  171.KEEP GOING

  Your cat will continue to need booster vaccinations throughout its life. The frequency will vary depending on the vaccines and where you live.

  NEUTERING

  172.TO NEUTER?

  Neutering (spaying for a female and castration for a male) is often spoken about as a magic cure for behavioral issues, but this is rarely the case. Evidence points to some behavior changes from neutering, but rarely are all cases improved. Cats learn from their actions. Even if hormonally motivated, as happens in intermale aggression, these are still learned behaviors.

  173.NEUTERING DEBATE

  Never delay neutering, as your young cat can father kittens or become pregnant. Ideally, this is carried out at around 4 months of age, although some vets prefer to perform this much earlier.

  174.MALES

  Aggression is common between intact males. Without neutering, males will wander much greater distances seeking females. Neutering helps to prevent unwanted kittens. Humans also report that the urine of neutered cats is much less pungent.

  175.CASTRATION

  Behaviors affected by castration include those influenced by male hormones, such as spraying or seeking females, which are sexually dimorphic behaviors. However, this is not guaranteed. Some males perform these behaviors even after being neutered.

  176.FEMALES

  Spaying prevents your female cat from going into heat,
characterized by yowling and frequent urination. However, spaying should not have other significant behavioral effects.

  177.FIGHTING

  Cats within the same household may compete for space, items, and other resources, such as food. This includes competition for attention from people. Fighting can be hormonally related if the cats are intact males, though they can be highly territorial even if neutered.

  178.RELAX!

  There’s no benefit to a cat’s ability to have a litter of kittens, and by not neutering, you are only adding to the number of homeless cats—of which there are already too many. And don’t worry, your cat’s personality is unlikely to change after neutering.

  179.BENEFITS

  In general, the health benefits of neutering and the elimination of the likelihood of unwanted kittens outweigh any other issues that may arise.

  WORMS AND OTHER PARASITES

  180.ROUNDWORMS

  These are the most common worms in cats and kittens. Roundworm eggs can last in the environment for years. Cats get infected by accidentally eating the eggs or by eating rats and mice that have eaten the eggs. Different types of roundworms are found around the world.

  181.SUSCEPTIBLE WHILE SUCKLING

  There are always a few dormant larvae in a cat. When a cat becomes pregnant, these larvae wake up and go to the mammary glands. Virtually every kitten will get infected with worms when they suckle.