Raising A Soul Surfer Read online

  ACCLAIM FOR RAISING A SOUL SURFER

  Bethany Hamilton’s story of a shark attack while surfing in Hawaii is nothing short of inspiring. The family “story behind the story” may be even more compelling. I loved reading about the Hamilton’s life before, during and after the shark attack and how they turned a tragedy into a triumph.

  Jim Burns, PhD

  President, HomeWord

  Author of 10 Building Blocks for a Solid Family and Faith Conversations for Families

  If you are a mother, you must read this book. Cheri reminds us that our children really belong to God. It is He who lets them breathe, He who knows how many hairs are on their heads, and He who is with them always . . . even when they are in the mouth of a shark.

  Shelene Bryan

  Founder of Skip1.org, Producer of Like Dandelion Dust

  Raising a Soul Surfer is an amazing story of how God shows us, even through adversity, that there is triumph. There is hope to those who seek Him, and His love endures forever! As parents, we all have hopes and dreams for our children, yet as big as our plans are for them, they are so much smaller than God’s! Through what could have been a devastating tragedy, the Hamilton family has shown that all things do work together for good to those that love Him (see Romans 8:28).

  Barbara Cameron

  Author of A Full House of Growing Pains

  This engaging autobiography chronicles the story of an unusual family of surfers that resulted in the phenomenon of Bethany Hamilton. Anyone interested in Bethany’s story, surfing or Hawaii in general will enjoy this lighthearted but truthful account of the lives of Tom and Cheri Hamilton, a couple of serious surfers who fell in love in Kauai, lived in a van, and raised their kids surfing from the time they were tadpoles. The drive and dedication the Hamiltons bring to their faith and surfing are showcased in this inspiring story in readable prose that will bring both chuckles and tears.

  Toby Neal, LCSW

  Therapist, Parent and Author

  Spending time with Cheri Hamilton and the whole Hamilton clan during script development, pre-production, filming and beyond gave me a unique perspective on the family. Seeing their love for God and the love of God pouring out of them kept us focused on the true reason for producing the film Soul Surfer. Having the opportunity to have Cheri capture even more of the story in Raising a Soul Surfer helps fill in all the blanks that are left unfilled by a two-hour movie.

  Rich Peluso

  Vice President, AFFIRM Films/Sony Pictures Entertainment

  I have been truly honored to know Bethany Hamilton, riding with her and sharing platforms where we witness people’s hearts being deeply moved by her inspirational story and her faith in God. As a child going and growing through difficulties of having no limbs since birth, I understand the importance of a mother’s role in one’s life through storms that seem too big at times. Cheri Hamilton’s testimony will touch and challenge anyone’s perspective of life. Furthermore, her love for Bethany, her family and, above all, God will ignite a flame of faith and encouragement to all who read it.

  Nick Vujicic

  Founder, Life Without Limbs

  RAISING A SOUL SURFER

  Published by Regal

  From Gospel Light

  Ventura, California, U.S.A.

  www.regalbooks.com

  Printed in the U.S.A.

  All Scripture quotations are taken from the following: NASB—Scripture taken from the New American Standard Bible, © 1960, 1962, 1963, 1968, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1975, 1977, 1995 by The Lockman Foundation. Used by permission. NIV—Scripture taken from the Holy Bible, New International Version®. Copyright © 1973, 1978, 1984 by International Bible Society. Used by permission of Zondervan Publishing House. All rights reserved. NLT—Scripture quotations marked NLT are taken from the Holy Bible, New Living Translation, copyright © 1996. Used by permission of Tyndale House Publishers, Inc., Wheaton, Illinois 60189. All rights reserved. TNIV—Scriptures taken from the Holy Bible, Today’s New International Version® TNIV®. Copyright © 2001, 2005 by International Bible Society®. Used by permission of International Bible Society®. All rights requested worldwide.

  © 2011 Cheri Hamilton. All rights reserved. Published in association with the literary agency of Working Title Agency, Spring Hill, Tennessee.

  Cover photograph of Bethany by Noah Hamilton of Noah Hamilton Photography (www.noahhamiltonphoto.com). Cover photograph of the Hamilton family by Mike Coots of Mike Coots Photography (www.mikecoots.com).

  All photographs © the Hamilton family archive and Noah Hamilton Photography, except photo #9 (Hamilton family photo) © Steve Gnazzo of Kilohana Photography and photo #20 (Timmy bodyboarding) © Shea Sevilla. Used with permssion.

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Hamilton, Cheri.

  Raising a soul surfer : one family’s epic tale / Cheri Hamilton with Rick Bundschuh.

  p. cm.

  ISBN 978-0-8307-5969-9 (hard cover)

  1. Hamilton, Bethany—Family.

  2. Surfing—Wounds and injuries—Hawaii—Kauai—Biography.

  3. Shark attacks—Hawaii—Kauai—Biography.

  4. Amputees—Rehabilitation—Biography.

  5. Christian biography—United States. I. Bundschuh, Rick, 1951- II. Title.

  III. Title: One family’s epic tale.

  GV838.H36H37 2011

  797.32092—dc22

  [B]

  2011007024

  Rights for publishing this book outside the U.S.A. or in non-English languages are administered by Gospel Light Worldwide, an international not-for-profit ministry. For additional information, please visit www.glww.org, email [email protected], or write to Gospel Light Worldwide, 1957 Eastman Avenue, Ventura, CA 93003, U.S.A.

  To order copies of this book and other Regal products in bulk quantities,

  please contact us at 1-800-446-7735.

  contents

  Foreword

  Introduction

  1. Hollywood Comes to Paradise

  2. Jersey Boy

  3. Ticket to ’Nam

  4. Destiny

  5. Hawaii Bound

  6. Captured by Christ

  7. Raising Christian Kids on Kauai

  8. Hopes, Dreams and Hurricanes

  9. In the Shadow of Death

  10. The Shark with a Ragged Fin

  11. Fearless Passion

  12. A Surfer Girl Who Loves God

  13. Keeping It Real

  Epilogue: Surfing His Waves

  Foreword

  “Don’t look down,” Bethany called out to me as we were surfing a reef break named “Freddy’s” on the North Shore of Oahu. I kept eyeing the shadows and coral heads beneath the surface of the crystal-blue water, secretly convinced I had seen a shark. Bethany, in her chill, all-knowing manner, knew exactly what was in my mind and encouraged me to set aside my fears.

  If you are that worried about sharks, don’t surf. Fear can ruin a good time, and anticipating the unknown is futile. Ever since a shark attacked Bethany, she focuses on what she can control instead of what she can’t see. In fact, “Don’t Look Down” seems to be an unspoken motto for the entire Hamilton family. This expression is not a suggestion that they ignore their fears; rather, it is a statement of courage that motivates them to embrace life’s challenges. Instead of worrying about what might happen, the Hamiltons trust in the Lord and don’t blink an eye to transitory disturbances. They continue to look up toward the Lord, hoping and praying for good instead of mulling over their fears.

  This unique family lives a beautifully rough island life, “following their bliss” and not fretting over what is around the next turn. Rather than analyzing and contemplating t
heir next move, they taste life and experience it. This attitude represents an island mentality of living life to the fullest and simply enjoying the gifts God provides: the ocean, family and friends.

  The Hamiltons and the island on which they live (Kauai) are all about community. But it’s a kind of community that cannot be replicated. The ocean spiritually bonds people on Kauai. The desire and love for the ocean is in the heart of every Hamilton and seems to carry them from day to day, giving physically satisfying meaning to their lives.

  During the past year, I’ve had time to get to know each member, and at this point they feel like extended family. I have found that although each of the Hamiltons has a love for the ocean, the similarities stop there. Tom (Dad) reminds me of a soft-spoken giant. He anchors the family, but he has the most kindhearted voice you’ll ever hear. When I was staying at the Hamilton house during this past winter break, I went with Tom on their little boat to watch Bethany surf some big waves. I’ve never seen Tom grin so wide. He literally became so entranced by the enormous sets rolling in and the barrel-rides being caught that the boat almost capsized.

  If one person could be the entire “coconut wireless,” it would be Cheri Hamilton. Cheri never stops praying. When we were shooting a particularly dangerous shark-attack sequence one day, the crew and cast experienced sharp reefs, unruly waves, rising tides and a difficult setup. But in the midst of crewmembers running around and pandemonium setting in, Cheri gathered a few people on the set and prayed for safety. When tensions were high on set and a million different activities consumed every second, it was nice to know that someone was praying for God to watch over every move.

  Noah, the oldest son, is the classic firstborn. He is always two steps ahead of the family, and usually most of the people around him as well. He dealt with just about every issue that came up on set, and because of his proactive nature, he, along with his wife, Becky, helped to make the film more accurate. Soul Surfer had a relatively low budget, and the production company didn’t have finances for an on-set still photographer. So Noah, a professional photographer himself, offered his services. Becky, who has a multitude of high-level skills, also documented the action with their video camera. Now we have images of the cast and crew hard at work—a recorded behind-the-scenes documentary. Noah continually thinks of how to solve problems himself instead of relying on others to do the job. By now he feels like an older brother, and with all of his ingenuity and kindness, he will make a wonderful father to his soon-to-be-born baby!

  Tim Hamilton, the middle child, has the disposition of a turtle. In Hawaii, that is a compliment! He is a natural waterman and is most content there. The first time I met Timmy was in the ocean. I had my first surf lesson with Bethany’s surf coach, Russell Lewis, and Tim was out in the water playing “lifeguard” for me. Of course, Tim didn’t have to look out for me—the film producers could have hired someone—but he took some prime body-board time to help me out. Tim lends a quiet hand whenever the need arises . . . never needing to be asked. Even though he says the least in the family, you have to keep your ears wide open around him. Tim is the person most worth listening to for his witty under-the-breath humor, which always makes me chuckle.

  And now, Bethany . . . It is difficult to find words to explain my love and admiration for my friend and personal hero. She totally charges!1 I still do not understand how she pops up on such a little short board with one arm. I take for granted her tenacity and trust in God, because that’s just the way she is. You cannot begin to compare her to anyone else on this planet. Bethany’s godly behavior and playful determination have continually had a positive influence on my life and the lives of those around her.

  I remember one particularly windy day when I wanted to surf. Bethany was available, so she took me out surfing. As soon as we arrived at the beach, I regretted my decision. The waves looked more intimidating than anything I had previously surfed before, not to mention it was close to sunset (of course, sharks eat at all hours of the day, so time should be irrelevant for me). Bethany eventually convinced me that I had “definitely ridden bigger waves,” so I paddled out.

  I was terrified. To me the waves seemed immense and life threatening, while to Bethany they probably seemed tame and barely large enough to have fun on. At one point, I endured a particularly gnarly wipeout (for me at least), but I’ll forever be proud of the small scar the fin of my board carved on my leg. After my wipeout, I caught the longest and most enjoyable right of my surf career to date.2

  After the ride was over, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. And I have Bethany to thank—she pushed me and taught me not to “look down.” Because she believed in me, I achieved a wave I never thought possible. Her presence ignites a vigor for life that is unique to anyone I have ever met.

  Bethany, Timmy, Noah, Cheri and Tom, I want to thank you for welcoming me into your lives. You have shared with me your love for the ocean, so I want to share with you one of my favorite quotes that captures our beloved sea: “Unchangeable save to thy wild waves’ play . . . roll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocean—roll.”3

  AnnaSophia Robb

  Notes

  1. “Charges”: having no fear and going for big waves.

  2. “Right”: A wave breaking toward the right from the vantage point of the surfer riding the wave. From the beach it would be a wave breaking toward the left.

  3. Lord Byron, “Apostrophe to the Ocean,” Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

  Introduction

  Greater love has no one than this,

  that he lay down his life for his friends.

  JOHN 15:13

  Tom, my husband, and my daughter, Bethany, had gone to Puerto Rico for a surf competition. Sitting at the computer, I did a search for weather conditions. That region tends to get big storms. I became concerned when I found hurricane Shary brewing, which is my name but with a different spelling. The weather report also said that another hurricane, called Tomas, my husband’s name, followed back to back and had stormed over Hamilton, an island town in Bermuda.

  I was amazed at the irony of the names, because it described in weather terms what life has been like for our family. At this time, November 2010, our nephew had just died on the East coast, and here on Kauai, everyone was in shock over the death of four-time world champion surfer Andy Irons, who had lived close by.

  All of these unusual signs also acted as a confirmation to put down on paper my reflections of the storm-surging changes that have come upon my life and that of my family, as well as the Island of Kauai.

  My mother said that I didn’t walk at seven months, I ran! Activity and energy have been a part of me from the start. I should have been a pro athlete, but at the time there were few options for women.

  When I went surfing for the first time, my life was never the same. I soon committed my whole life and existence to catching the next wave. For the next 15 years, I lived to surf. I focused my everyday life on finding waves and only working jobs that allowed me to have time to surf.

  When I met Jesus, I personally experienced His divine providence in a way that I could not walk away from, which guaranteed that I would never deny His existence. After I had invited Jesus into my heart, I knew that I had found the truth and, at last, that my deepest desire for love was fulfilled and complete in Him. His love filled a void in my heart that I had longed for all of my life.

  At the beginning, I was a young surfer girl, living my dreams, who encountered God in an unlikely place through unlikely disciples. I was a surf gypsy, with a surf gypsy husband, enjoying life in a tropical paradise. But I became a mother who had to wrestle with fear and uncertainty when the news came that her daughter had been attacked by a shark. I never expected our children to be life-changers. We had raised our daughter to surf, not to be in the media spotlight. Yet she embraced this challenge to honor God and be His witness to the world.

  Our story is about a violently shattered dream that was replaced with a bigger one. But most of all, our life story has
been, and continues to be, about trusting God in spite of circumstances, pressures and unexpected events.

  I’ve always wanted to be involved in some kind of Christian ministry, but every door closed for me; so I focused on raising my children for Him—teaching them His Word, His ways and His unconditional love. Unbelievably, it turned out to be the very ministry God was calling me to all along.

  My story tells about a journey to find hope, truth and purpose. It encompasses the perspective of my husband, a sensitive yet strong father who struggled to make sense of a tragedy, and who had to learn to trust God all over again. It reveals my struggles to find love, hope and acceptance. It includes the perspective of my sons, Bethany’s brothers, whose lives have been irrevocably changed by the sudden and unforeseen reverberations stemming from the choice our family made to allow Bethany’s story to be told.

  Most of all, this story is a glimpse into God’s perspective as it has been revealed to us. Only in retrospect have we been able to see how far back His amazing providence has reached into our lives. His hand has always been active, and not just since the events of that fateful Halloween morning in 2003. From the beginning, God prepared our lives in so many ways for “such a time as this,” just as He did for Queen Esther (Esther 4:14, NIV).

  My hope is that by reading our story you will be encouraged to pursue God regardless of the cost. He doesn’t take away or allow you to go through pain to hurt you, but to heal and transform and draw you to Himself. God’s plan is not to leave us as He found us, but to fill our lives with His purpose and His hope for an amazing future filled with His love!

  I cannot get enough of God’s Word. The more I learn, the more I want to learn. His Word is so deep, fascinating and layered with insight and guidance that it is new to me every morning. God’s Word is a book that can be read for a lifetime without ever plumbing its depths. It is filled with the story of His love for each and every person that He has ever created. His Word tells us about hope and a future plan He has for everyone (see Jeremiah 29:11).