Antigua Directions Read online

  Prickly Pear Island

  Five minutes' boat ride from the beach at Hodges Bay.

  Prickly Pear Island is a small, uninhabited place with a nice beach and good snorkelling. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, a character called Miguel runs day trips out here from the beach at Hodges Bay for US$60, or US$30 for kids (tel 460 9978 or 723 7814, www.pricklypearisland.com). The price includes sunbeds, snorkeling gear and all-you-care-to-eat and -drink from a big buffet-style lunch of seafood and West Indian specialities.

  Jabberwock Beach

  An otherwise unremarkable spot, Jabberwock Beach has, because of its strong winds and relative seclusion, recently become the home of the island's first kiteboarding operation, KiteAntigua (www.kiteantigua.com). This new sport combines some of the principles of windsurfing, wakeboarding, power kiting and just plain flying: a rider on a board controls a huge, partly inflated kite so that it pulls him along the water and often several feet into the air. Even if it sounds too extreme a sport (or indeed, too expensive – a 4hr beginner's course will set you back a whopping US$200), it's well worth stopping to watch for a while.

  Stanford Cricket Ground

  Right by the airport, where Texan banker and developer Allen Stanford is presiding over some major new developments, including offices, shops, restaurants and a health club, you'll find the Stanford Cricket Ground, a spectacular new floodlit stadium with a pavilion, stand and restaurant, The Sticky Wicket. The stadium doesn't host test matches (these will still be played at the Rec in St John's) though it does serve as a practice pitch for international touring teams, as well as the venue for local games and day-night one-day matches.

  Fitches Creek Bay

  Fitches Creek Bay is a desolate inlet with no beaches of note, dotted with brackish mangrove swamps. It is, however, a great place for birdwatching: look out for herons, egrets and whistling ducks among the multitude of local species.

  St George's Parish Church

  Overlooking Fitches Creek Bay, St George's Parish Church was first constructed in 1687 – though hurricane and earthquake damage have each long since taken their toll. Recent reconstruction of the place is largely complete, the church having been gutted and a new roof raised, but the ancient, weathered brick walls and crumbling tombs facing out to sea still lend it a strong sense of history.

  St Peter's Parish Church

  First settled in the seventeenth century, Parham, one of the oldest inhabited towns on the island, boasts the impressive, octagonal St Peter's Parish Church, considered unique in the Caribbean. A wooden church was first erected here in 1711, although the present structure mostly dates from 1840. The inside is spacious and airy, with tall windows capped by brick arches, as well as a handful of marble tablets that commemorate nineteenth-century local notables. The unusual wooden ribbed ceiling is especially striking; the design – like an upturned ship's hull – has a delightful simplicity.

  Parham Harbour

  Outside St Peter's Parish Church, the cemetery tumbles down the hill towards Parham Harbour, Antigua's first port. Protected from the Atlantic waves by offshore islands, this fine natural anchorage was busy with oceangoing ships for more than two centuries until sugar exports slumped in the 1920s. Now it shelters yachts and small fishing vessels – there's a small jetty at the eastern end of town, but few other port facilities to testify to its heyday.

  Betty's Hope

  Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

  Built in 1650, the partly restored Betty's Hope is Antigua's very first sugar estate. It was owned by the Codrington family for nearly two centuries, until the end of World War II. By that time, lack of profitability had brought the place to the edge of closure, which followed soon after.

  Today, although most of Betty's Hope still lies in ruins, one of the windmills has been restored to working condition, and a small, interesting museum at the visitor centre tells the history of sugar on Antigua and explains the development and restoration of the estate.

  St Stephen's Anglican Church

  East along Collins Road, about 1.5km from Betty's Hope.

  The otherwise unremarkable St Stephen's Anglican Church has been rebuilt to a curious design, with the pulpit in the centre and the pews on each side. Meanwhile, outside the church, the crumbling tombs in the flower-strewn cemetery are testament to the fact that – in spite of the recent rebuild – the place has been a religious site for several centuries.

  Seatons

  The village of Seatons is the starting point for two very enjoyable, informative and well-organized ecotour attractions. The first, offered by Stingray City Antigua, allows you to swim with stingrays in their "natural" environment, a large penned area of ocean not far offshore (US$50 per person, US$35 for children; tel 562 7297, www.stingraycityantigua.com). The second, offered by "Paddles" Kayak & Snorkel Club, is a half-day kayak tour of the nearby islands, inlets and mangroves, with an option to hike to sunken caves and snorkel in the North Sound Marine Park (US$50 per person, US$35 for children under 12; tel 463 1944, www.antiguapaddles.com).

  Devil's Bridge

  1km east along track signposted off Collins Road.

  On a rocky outcrop edged by patches of grassy land, tall century plants and sunbathing cattle, Devil's Bridge takes its name from a narrow piece of rock whose underside has been washed away by thousands of years of relentless surf. The hot, windswept spot offers some of the most fetching views on the island, both back across a quiet cove and across the lashing ocean and dark reefs to a series of small islands just offshore.

  En route back to the main road, a dirt track on your right after 400m leads down to a tiny but gorgeous bay – the perfect venue for a picnic. The place plays occasional host to some local parties, and can get rather litter-strewn, but the turquoise sea is exceptionally inviting and the usually empty strip of white beach a great place to chill out.

  Long Bay

  Though Long Bay is home to a couple of rather exclusive all-inclusives, the Long Bay Hotel and Pineapple Beach, this doesn't stop you from getting access to a great, wide bay, enormously popular with local schoolkids, who can often be found splashing around or playing cricket at one end of the beach. The lengthy spread of white sand is protected by an extensive reef a few hundred metres offshore, so be sure to bring your snorkelling gear. There's also a great little beach bar and a more upmarket restaurant (The Beach House), good for shelter and refreshment when you've had enough sun.

  Harmony Hall

  The restored plantation house at Harmony Hall is now home to a tiny, chic hotel, one of the island's best restaurants and an art gallery that showcases exhibitions of local and Caribbean art from November through April. Though it's a ways away from the main tourist hangouts and a little awkward to reach (down some poor-quality roads), it's a relaxed, friendly and delightful place, well worth the detour.

  Green Island

  Five minutes' boat ride from the jetty at Harmony Hall.

  On deserted Green Island, the beaches are powdery and the snorkelling excellent. If you're not a guest at the Harmony Hall hotel, there's a small charge for the boat service – ask at the hotel bar.

  Half Moon Bay

  One of the prettiest spots on Antigua, Half Moon Bay boasts a kilometre-long semicircle of white-sand beach partially enclosing a deep-blue bay, where the Atlantic surf normally offers top-class bodysurfing opportunities. The isolation of this side of the island means that the beach is often pretty empty, especially since the 1995 closure, after Hurricane Luis, of the expensive hotel at its southern end.

  Soldier Point

  At the southern end of Half Moon Bay, the headland of Soldier Point marks the beginning of an excellent 45min circular hike. Where the beach ends you can clamber up onto the rocks and a trail – marked by splashes of blue paint along its entire length – that cuts left along the edge of the cliff. It's a moderately tough climb, with a bit of a scramble required in places, but worth the effort for some fine views out to sea and over the bay and – apart from butterflies and
seabirds – a sense of splendid isolation. Don't go barefoot, though: the rocks are sharp in places and there are plenty of thorns around.

  Accommodation

  Grand Pineapple Beach

  Long Bay; tel 463 2006, fax 463 2452, www.allegroantigua.com.

  Sprawling but attractively landscaped all-inclusive, with 130 rooms (US$500/400 in winter/summer) scattered alongside a lovely stretch of beach. The place can feel crowded, but the facilities – including four tennis courts and free non-motorized watersports – are good and there are plenty of activities laid on to distract you. Three restaurants mean you get a bit of variation for your evening meal, and there's a piano bar.

  Harmony Hall

  Brown's Bay Mill; tel 460 4120, fax 460 4406, [email protected], www.harmonyhall.com.

  A small, delightful Italian-run place in the middle of nowhere, open from November to mid-May only. There are six simple but stylish rooms, which go for US$165, with tiled floors, large bathrooms, comfortable beds and small patios. The beach isn't up to much, but a small free boat regularly ferries guests out to the clean white sand at Green Island, five minutes away. The restaurant is classy and normally busy; when it's closed (as it is at dinnertime during the week), the hotel lays on separate food for guests. Don't come here for anything other than total peace and quiet.

  Long Bay Hotel

  Long Bay; tel 463 2005, fax 463 2439, www.longbayhotel.com. Closed Sept & Oct.

  A small all-inclusive located in a fabulous setting by a tiny turquoise bay, with twenty cosy rooms, five cottages and a real feeling of isolation. Don't expect anything flash – the hotel owner and his friendly staff pride themselves on keeping everything very low-key and relaxed. That said, there are a few sailboats and windsurfers, a good tennis court, a big library and a games room with table tennis and board games. The chef is excellent and the bartender makes the best rum punch on the island. Rooms start at US$345/236 in high/low season for two, including breakfast and dinner.

  Sandpiper Reef Resort

  Boons Bay; tel 462 0939, fax 462 1743, www.sandpiper-reef.com.

  Tucked away on the north coast, this reasonably priced option (US$100/88 in winter/summer) has seen better days, though the beach is nice and quiet and you're only a short drive away from some of the best windsurfing locations on the island, as well as kiteboarding at Jabberwock Beach. On the downside, you'll need a car to get anywhere beyond the hotel.

  Sunsail Club Colonna

  Hodges Bay; tel 462 6263, fax 462 6430, www.sunsail.com.

  Attractive north coast resort, Mediterranean in design – red-tiled roofs and pastel shades throughout – well landscaped and with the most spectacular pool on the island. The beach is pretty ordinary, but the solitude is addictive (though the hotel itself can get quite crowded). Most guests are staying on an all-inclusive package, many taking part in the windsurfing and sailing schools and many with young ones – this is one of the most child-friendly hotels on the island, with kids' clubs for all ages. There's also a good dive shop and a "body zone" for manicures, massages, etc. Readers of a leading British Sunday newspaper rated the place best-value resort in the world – rooms go from US$200/150 in winter/summer.

  Restaurants and bars

  The Beach Bar

  Long Bay. Daily for lunch only.

  Often lively local spot right on the beach that makes for a great place to take a break from the sun and surf. Chicken and rice, burgers or fish and chips for EC$15–25.

  The Beach House

  At the Long Bay Hotel, Long Bay; tel 463 2005. Daily for lunch only.

  Good selection of salads, sandwiches and fish (EC$25–40) at this casual terrace restaurant next to a beautiful stretch of beach. When cruise ships are in at St John's, it can get crowded for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, as many passengers are told that Long Bay has the best beach on the island, and that they should take a taxi ride over for a brief visit.

  Harmony Hall

  Brown's Bay Mill; tel 460 4120, fax 460 4406, [email protected], www.harmonyhall.com. Daily 10am–6pm, Fri & Sat dinner also, closed May–Nov.

  Run by a charming Italian couple, this is one of the island's finer restaurants, even if it is set nowhere near anyplace else. Built around an old sugar mill, the elegant but simple food is served on a terrace overlooking the bay. The menu includes starters of pumpkin soup (EC$20), homemade mozzarella with beetroots (EC$26) and an extraordinary antipasto misto (EC$35); mains of lobster tortellini (EC$38) or red snapper in a light cherry tomato and white wine sauce (EC$65); and delicious desserts of crême brulée (EC$18) or deep-fried bananas in cinnamon (EC$20). Despite the long drive along a road that's seen better days, the place is always busy and well worth the trip.

  Le Bistro

  Hodges Bay; tel 462 3881, fax 461 2996, [email protected], www.lebistroantigua.com. Tues–Sun dinner only.

  Long-established and well-reputed restaurant with a calm vibe and good, unobtrusive service. The place lays on excellent, authentic French cuisine, including starters of onion soup for EC$22 and snails in garlic butter for EC$30, and mains of lobster fettucine (EC$70), stir-fried shrimps flambéed in brandy (EC$75) and duck in orange sauce (EC$75).

  The Sticky Wicket

  Pavillion Drive (next to the airport), Coolidge; tel 481 7000, fax 481 7010, www.thestickywicket.com. Daily for lunch and dinner.

  Brand new cricket-themed diner and sports bar right next to the Stanford Cricket Ground. Even outside the cricket season, there's a good buzz here, with regular live music, TVs showing top sporting events, unusual cocktails and excellent food. Bar snacks like West Indian pork ribs and spicy jerk buffalo wings go for around EC$25, meat and fish mains cost no more than EC$50–65 and there's a nice kids' menu for EC$15. Even if you don't come here during your stay, it's the ideal place to wait for your plane home, as the airport's just a short walk away.

  Falmouth and English Harbour

  An essential stop on any visit to Antigua, the picturesque area around Falmouth and English Harbour on the island's south coast holds some of the most important and interesting historical remains in the Caribbean; it's now also the region's leading yachting centre. The chief attraction is the eighteenth-century Nelson's Dockyard, which was the key facility for the British navy that once ruled the waves in the area. Today it's a living museum where visiting yachts are still cleaned, supplied and chartered, with several ruined forts nearby, as well as an abundance of attractive colonial buildings on the waterfront, several now converted into hotels and restaurants.

  Across the harbour from the dockyard, there is further evidence of Antigua's colonial past at Shirley Heights, where more ruined forts, gun batteries and an old cemetery hold a commanding position over the water. It's a dramatic place whose rather forlorn air is shattered on Sunday evenings when steel and reggae bands lend sound to a lively (if somewhat over-touristed) barbecue party.

  The area also has a handful of far less visited spots that repay a trip, including the massive military complex at Great Fort George, high in the hills above Falmouth, and the wonderful Rendezvous Bay – outstanding in an area with a paucity of good beaches; it's just a short boat ride or less than an hour's hike from Falmouth. Northwest of the area are the villages of Liberta and Swetes – the former notable as one of the first havens for freed slaves post-emancipation; the latter for its more recent connections with cricket.

  Falmouth Harbour

  This large, beautiful natural harbour has been used as a safe anchorage since the days of Antigua's earliest colonists, and the town that sprang up beside it was the first major settlement on the island. Today, though the harbour is still often busy with yachts, Falmouth itself is a quiet place, most of the activity in the area having moved east to English Harbour and Nelson's Dockyard, divided from Falmouth Harbour by a small peninsula known as the Middle Ground.

  St Paul's Church

  Right alongside Falmouth's main road.

  There's little in Falmouth to stop for, though you may want
to pay a brief visit to St Paul's Church. The original wooden church (long since destroyed by a hurricane) was the island's first, dating from the 1660s. Its modern brick successor is rarely open, but among the cracked eighteenth-century tombstones that cover the east side of the extensive graveyard is that of James Pitt, brother of the British prime minister, who died in English Harbour in 1780.

  Rendezvous Bay

  Although there is no beach of particular note in Falmouth, you can make a great hike from just west of town to Rendezvous Bay, the most idyllic and one of the quietest beaches on Antigua. Caressed by an aquamarine sea, and backed by coconut palms and dotted with driftwood, this curve of fine white sand is a gorgeous place to swim. The comparatively remote location means that there is rarely anyone else here, although the occasional boat trip makes its way across from Falmouth to use a thatched barbecue hut on the beach, which offers welcome shade. Bring some water, a picnic, a book and some snorkelling gear, and you could easily spend half a day here.

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  Practicalities

  A car is invaluable for touring around this area of the south coast. There are frequent buses between St John's and English Harbour, handy if you just want to explore Nelson's Dockyard, but to get up to Shirley Heights you'll certainly need your own transport or a taxi. See the listings in Essentials for car rental, tours and taxi information.

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  Getting to Rendezvous Bay

  Heading out from Falmouth, turn left on Farrell Avenue and follow the road past the colourful Rainbow School onto a dirt track edged with banana groves. Take a right at the first intersection, past the Spring Hill Riding Club, then, at the fork, go left up a hill that soon becomes paved. There's a big, white house at the top of the hill; park near it and follow the track that veers off to the left. Driving a car, it should take around 5min to reach this point from the top of Farrell Avenue; on foot, it'll take about 25min.