Antigua Directions Read online

  Barbuda surpasses even Antigua in the quality (and remoteness) of its beaches, and its snorkelling and diving opportunities are also world-class. Unfortunately, the island has little in the way of infrastructure to support tourists looking for watersports – meaning you may have to take your own gear.

  Diving and snorkelling

  Diving is excellent on the coral reefs around Antigua and Barbuda, with most of the good sites – places like Sunken Rock and Cape Shirley – on the south side of the larger island. Many of these sites are very close to shore, rarely more than a fifteen-minute boat ride away. Expect to see a wealth of fabulously colourful reef fish, including parrot fish, angelfish, wrasse and barracuda, as well as the occasional harmless nurse shark and, if you're lucky, dolphins and turtles. The reefs for the most part are still in pristine, unspoiled condition and, though there is no wall diving and most dives are fairly shallow, there are some good cliffs and canyons and a handful of wrecks.

  Antigua has plenty of quality dive operators scattered conveniently around the island, so you should always be able to find a boat going out from near where you're staying. Rates are pretty uniform: reckon on around US$75 for a single-tank dive, US$100 for a two-tank dive and US$90 for a night dive. Beginners can get a feel for diving by taking a half-day resort course, which covers basic theory and includes a shallow-water (or pool) demonstration and a single dive. The course costs around US$100, and allows you to continue to dive with the people who taught you, though not with any other operator (as you're not really certified). Full open-water certification – involving theory, tests, training dives and four full dives – is rather more variable in price, costing US$400–500, depending on the time of year and how busy the operator is. Call around for the best deal.

  Serious divers should consider a package deal, either involving a simple three or five two-tank dive package (ie, three or five separate trips, consisting of two dives each; roughly US$200–300 and US$350–450, respectively) or a deal that includes accommodation and diving. Prices for these can be pretty good value, particularly outside the winter season. It's worth contacting the dive operators directly to find out the latest offers.

  Barbuda's diving is at least as good as Antigua's, with countless wrecks dotted around the nearby reefs. Sadly, though, at the time of writing there is no established dive outfit on the island. You can ask some of the Antiguan dive operators for the latest information, or check with one of the agencies that offers tours to the island – they can normally arrange for certified divers to be provided with tanks and guides on Barbuda, though the costs can be hefty.

  Snorkelling around the islands is excellent, too, and several of the dive operators take snorkellers on their dive trips, mooring near some good, relatively shallow coralheads. Reckon on around US$20–25 for an outing, including equipment. That said, a boat ride is far from essential for snorkellers – there are loads of good spots just a short swim offshore from both Antigua and Barbuda, and these are mentioned throughout the Guide. Most of the top hotels have snorkelling gear for hire or loan, but if you're not at one of these, finding the equipment can be tricky (try Deep Bay Divers in St John's; see below); it's worth bringing a mask and fins with you, certainly if you're heading to Barbuda.

  Dive operators

  Aquanauts

  At the St James Club hotel, Mamora Bay; tel 460 5000.

  Good, professional south coast outfit with top-quality equipment, catering to the hotel guests and drop-ins from elsewhere.

  Deep Bay Divers

  Redcliffe Quay, St John's; tel 463 8000, www.deepbaydivers.com.

  New outfit with a 34ft dive boat with room for up to fourteen divers and offering trips down to Cades Reef in the southwest (a fifty-minute ride), Ariadne Shoal (also fifty minutes away but much further offshore) or straight out to Sandy Island, fifteen minutes' west of St John's. Snorkellers welcome if there's room; snorkelling gear costs US$15 to rent.

  Dive Antigua

  At the Rex Halcyon Cove hotel, Dickenson Bay; tel 462 3483, fax 462 7787, www.diveantigua.com.

  Based on the northwest coast, Dive Antigua is the longest-established and best-known dive operation on the island; prices are normally a little higher than most of the other operators. They also offer a glass-bottomed boat to take snorkellers out to the reef.

  Dockyard Divers

  Nelson's Dockyard; tel 460 1178, fax 460 1179.

  Decent-sized dive shop (and the only outfit in the English Harbour area offering snorkelling tours) that lays on diving trips around the south and west coasts.

  Jolly Dive

  Jolly Harbour Marina; tel 462 8305, www.jollydive.com.

  Second-oldest dive shop in Antigua and very popular with guests at the big, local hotels; look elsewhere if you want to go out in a small group.

  Ultramarine

  At the Sunsail Club Colonnaresort, Hodges Bay; tel 462 6263.

  Good dive shop, though some distance from the best sites to the south. As well as regular dive trips, they also offer "surface scuba" for children under 12, who aren't old enough to go to any depth.

  Boats and catamarans

  There is no shortage of boat and catamaran trips to be made around Antigua, with the emphasis on being part of a big crowd all having a fun time together – not, it must be said, everyone's cup of tea. Most of the cruises charge a single price, including a meal and all the drinks you want, and the two main cruise companies, Kokomo and Wadadli Cats, offer virtually identical trips, travelling on large, comfortable catamarans.

  The most popular cruise – a great way to see the island – sails right around Antigua, taking in some snorkelling and lunch at Green Island off the east coast. There is also a superb snorkelling trip to Cades Reef on the south coast, stopping off for lunch on one of the west-coast beaches, and another to uninhabited Great Bird Island – where there's plenty of bird life – off the northeast. Finally, there's a "triple destination" cruise on Sundays to English Harbour via Green Island, ending with a taxi ride up to the steel band party on Shirley Heights and another taxi home.

  Each of these trips is offered by Kokomo and Wadadli, and both will pick up passengers from a number of different locations on the west coast. All are out from around 9am until 4pm, apart from the triple-destination tour, which runs roughly 10am to sunset. The circumnavigation cruise costs US$85 per person, Cades Reef US$70, and the triple-destination cruise US$100, all prices including snorkelling gear, a buffet lunch and an open bar. Tickets for children under 12 are half-price.

  Cruise and boat tour operators

  Adventure Antigua

  tel 727 3261 or 560 4672, www.adventureantigua.com.

  Owner Eli Fuller takes passengers by smallish motorboat on a seven-hour ecotour of the northeast coast of the island, showing where the endangered hawksbill turtles lay their eggs, and through the mangrove swamps, looking out for rays, frigate birds, osprey and turtles. There are several snorkelling opportunities, and the guide lays on fresh fruit juices, rum punch and lunch on a deserted beach. Cost is US$90 per person, and the trip goes out between two and five times a week, depending on demand.

  Excellence and Tiami

  tel 480 1225, www.tropicalad.com.

  On sleek, luxurious new catamarans, trips around the island or to Cades Reef, Great Bird Island or Barbuda. Costs from US$85 per person.

  Jolly Roger Pirate Cruises

  tel 480 1225, www.tropicalad.com.

  Hearty party cruises, with rope-swinging and walking the plank for those piratically inclined and limbo competitions and calypso dance classes for the rest. Around US$60 per person.

  Jabberwocky

  tel 775 0595 or 773 3115, www.adventurecaribbean.com.

  Tailor-made cruises on a luxurious day-charter yacht. Pick whichever beaches and coves you want to visit around the island or even go overnight to Barbuda. Costs from US$85 per person.

  Kokomo Cats

  tel 462 7245, www.kokomocat.com.

  Round the island trips (Tues, Thurs
, Sat, US$85), Cades Reef (Wed, US$70), Great Bird Island (Fri, US$70), and a quadruple-destination cruise (no different from a triple-destination cruise; Sun, $100) on speedy, well-appointed catamarans. Kokomo also offer sunset cruises on Thursdays from Jolly Harbour on the west coast, out from 4.30pm (US$40).

  "Paddles" Kayak & Snorkel Club

  tel 463 1944, www.antiguapaddles.com.

  Based in the village of Seatons on the northeast coast, this outfit offers half-day ecotours of mangroves, reefs and the local coast via motor boat, kayak, snorkelling and a nature walk.

  Wadadli Cats

  tel 462 4792, www.wadadlicats.com.

  Circumnavigation cruises (Thurs, Sat, US$85), Cades Reef (Wed, US$70), Great Bird Island (Fri, US$70), a sunset cruise (Sat, US$40), and a triple-destination cruise (Sun, US$100).

  Sailing

  Antigua is one of the prime sailing destinations in the Caribbean and, particularly during Sailing Week in April, the island becomes a refuelling and party stop for crowds of hearty yachters. If you're after some crewing on boats sailing between the West Indian islands, ask around and look out for crew notices at Nelson's Dockyard on the south coast and at the yacht charter outfits (Sun Charters and Nicholson's) just outside the dockyard. For information on Sailing Week and the preceding classic yacht regatta, check out www.sailingweek.com and www.antiguaclassics.com.

  Fishing

  Various charter boats offer deep-sea fishing trips where you can go after wahoo, tuna, barracuda, snook, tarpon, bone fish and, if you're lucky, marlin and other sailfish. Prices for up to six people start at around US$400 for a half-day, $600 for a whole day, including rods, bait, food, drink and transport from your hotel. If you want to go on your own, operators will put you with another group if they can and charge around US$100 for a half-day.

  Regular operators include Missa Ferdie (tel 462 1440 or 460 1503, [email protected]), Nightwing (tel 460 5337, www.fishantigua.com, [email protected]), Overdraft (tel 462 1961 or 464 4954, www.antiguafishing.com, [email protected]) and Phill's Eco Fishing (tel 723 4303, [email protected]). If you hunt around at dockside, particularly in St John's and Jolly Harbour, you can find plenty of others.

  If you just want to go out with some local fishermen – which can be an amazing experience – ask around at one of the main fishing settlements like Old Road on the south coast. Many will be grateful for an extra pair of hands, though you'll need to clarify in advance exactly what's expected of you – pulling lobster pots and fishing nets is extremely tough work and you may be at it for hours.

  Other watersports

  Many of the hotels have their own windsurfers which you can borrow for no extra cost, and there's a windsurfing school (daily 9am–5pm) at Sunsail Club Colonna on the northeast coast. Non-guests can buy a day's watersports pass for US$100, or US$55 for a half (both allow you to attend the windsurfing school).

  A little further east and not far from the airport, Dutchman's Bay is another good spot for windsurfing, whether you're a beginner or an expert. H2O Antigua (tel 562 3933 or 728 2998, www.h2oantigua.com) rents equipment for US$60 a day, with lessons starting at US$50.

  On Dickenson Bay, Tony's Water Sports (tel 462 6326), Sea Sports (tel 462 3355) and Pop's (tel 460 5644) offer a variety of watersports. A ten-minute parasail costs US$45, a similar period of waterskiing costs US$25, while jet-skis cost US$30 for half an hour (US$40 for a two-seater). If you want to do a lot of watersports, consider buying a day-pass for around US$50 from Sandals. You'll also find various men offering you use of their jet-skis and small sailboats at negotiable prices; it usually works out cheaper than going with an established company – but bear in mind that insurance will be nonexistent.

  Lastly, at Jabberwock Beach on the north coast, you can try the new sport of kiteboarding with an outfit called KiteAntigua (tel 727 3983, www.kiteantigua.com).

  Golf

  There are two eighteen-hole public golf courses in Antigua. Barbuda has a tiny course at the K Club, but it is open only to guests.

  Golf courses

  Cedar Valley Golf Club

  5km north of St John's; tel 462 0161, fax 562 2762, www.cedarvalleygolf.ag, [email protected].

  A 6157-yard, par 70 championship course, and venue for the annual Antigua Open, held each November. It's a lovely course, lined with palms, flamboyants and cedars and, from its higher points, offers great panoramic views of the island. Given the dryness of the islands, water hazards are mercifully few but, that aside, it's a reasonably challenging course. Greens fees are US$35–45 in low/high season for eighteen holes (US$18–23 for nine holes), plus US$15–20 per person for rental of clubs and another US$30 if you want to rent a cart (US$15 for nine holes). The dress code is pretty relaxed, but you will need a collared shirt.

  Jolly Harbour Golf Course

  8km south of St John's; tel 480 6950, www.jollyharbourantigua.com/golf.html.

  The island's other major golf location, a 6001-yard, par 71 course designed by American Karl Litten. It's an excellent course, flatter than Cedar Valley but (with seven lakes) more fraught with peril. Around US$50 for eighteen holes.

  Horseback riding

  Though you may well be offered a horseback tour during your visit (often on a rather mangy and forlorn creature), there is only one official horse-riding stable on the island, located just west of Falmouth at Spring Hill (tel 460 7787 or 460 1333). They have around a dozen horses and offer lessons for EC$50/US$20 per hour or simple riding tours of the area for EC$40/US$16 per hour.

  Tennis and squash

  Many hotels on Antigua have their own tennis courts, best at places like the Royal Antiguan, Rex Halcyon Cove and the St James Club, but there are a handful of public tennis and squash courts available around the island, charging around EC$35/US$14 per hour, and EC$10/US$4 for hire of equipment.

  Tennis and squash courts

  BBR Sportive

  Jolly Harbour; tel 462 6260.

  Private squash and four floodlit tennis courts at this west coast resort; rackets and other equipment can be hired.

  Temo Sports

  English Harbour; tel 463 6376.

  Two glass-backed squash courts and two floodlit synthetic-grass tennis courts, with all equipment available for hire. There's also a new burger bar and a good bar area with pool and darts. Round-robin tennis tournament on Fridays; closed Saturday evenings and Sundays.

  Cycling

  Cycling is a great way of seeing Antigua, not least because there are few hills and – away from St John's – not much traffic either. Operators offer guided island tours by mountain bike, particularly through attractive places like Fig Tree Drive in the south; if you want to go it alone, several outfits will be happy to rent you a bike sans guide.

  Cycle companies

  Cycle Krazy

  St John's; tel 462 9253.

  Group tours organized with a "support jeep" carrying drinks and first-aid gear. Around US$30 per person for a half-day tour, to many of the same places as Tropikelly Trails.

  H2O Antigua.

  Dutchman's Bay, Coolidge; tel 562 3933 or 728 2998, www.h2oantigua.com.

  Mountain bikes can be rented from this windsurfing centre for US$35 for a day, US$105 for a week.

  Paradise Boat Sales

  Jolly Harbour; tel 460 7125, www.paradiseboats.com.

  Bikes rented for US$15 per day, US$70 for a week.

  Tropikelly Trails

  Fitches Creek; tel 461 0383, www.tropikellytrails.com.

  Impressively well-organized tour operator, whose popular guided bike tours – for example, down along the coast to Darkwood Beach, or up through the hills around Fig Tree Drive – start from St John's and cost US$35 a head including bike, helmet and drinks.

  Hiking

  There are plenty of great hikes in Antigua, a number of them described throughout the Guide. For US$20–35 per person, and assuming they can raise enough hikers to make it worthwhile, Tropikelly Trails (tel 461 0383, www.tropikellytrails.com) runs a pleasant, moderately strenuous
two-hour guided hike in the hills of the southwest. More elaborate and longer hikes are periodically organized by Peter Todd of the Hiking Company (tel 460 1151) – call to find out what he has planned.

  Jeep tours

  Tropikelly Trails (tel 461 0383, www.tropikellytrails.com) and Island Safari (tel 562 5337, www.tropicalad.com) both offer great off-road tours, exploring both the human and natural history of Antigua. Island Safari does a nice combination package with a jeep tour in the morning, lunch on a deserted beach and a kayaking and snorkelling trip in the afternoon. These tours will each run you about US$85.

  Helicopter tours

  If you want to splash out, Caribbean Helicopters (tel 460 5900, www.caribbeanhelicopters.net) offer sightseeing tours for US$75 per person (15min, half-island tour) or US$130 (30min, full-island tour). Though expensive, it's a great way to see all of Antigua at once – 100 miles of shoreline, plus every beach, reef, hotel, and fort, all from an unrivalled bird's-eye view.

  Crime and personal safety

  Compared to what you'll encounter in Jamaica or several other Caribbean islands, harassment in Antigua is extremely mild. The itinerant vendors who patrol some of the beaches are the main culprits – you'll occasionally be offered drugs or pressed to look at some uninspiring crafts – but on the whole police crackdowns have kept them at a distance. If you're not interested, just be firm in saying no thanks and they'll leave you alone.

  Violent crime involving tourists is rare but not unheard of. After dark, it's advisable to steer clear of unlit or unpatrolled areas of the beach, and you'll probably want to avoid the rougher areas of St John's, though there's no reason why you'd want to visit them. Drugs present an increasing problem on the island, particularly a growing use of crack cocaine, which is leading to a rise in theft and burglary to finance the habit. Marijuana use is just as widespread – and equally illegal – often distributed on the beaches, particularly on the south coast, to likely-looking punters. If you want it, you can get it, but bear in mind that there are plenty of undercover police around, and the local press runs stories daily of tourists facing heavy fines for possession.