Antigua Directions Read online

  Antigua

  D I R E C T I O N S

  written and researched by

  Adam Vaitlingam

  and

  Romesh Vaitlingam

  Rough Guides New Media

  New York · London · Delhi

  www.roughguides.com

  Publishing Information

  This 1st edition published August 2004 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.

  345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, USA.

  Distributed by the Penguin Group

  Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

  Penguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA

  Penguin Group (Australia), 487 Maroondah Highway, PO Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134, Australia

  Penguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4

  Penguin Group (NZ), 182–190 Wairau Road, Auckland 10, New Zealand

  The print version of this eBook was Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles.

  © Rough Guides, 2004

  No part of this eBook may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews.

  A catalogue record for print version of this eBook is available from the British Library

  ISBN 1-84353-319-7

  The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in Antigua DIRECTIONS, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

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  Contents

  Introduction

  Ideas

  The big six

  Beaches

  Restaurants

  Colonial forts

  On the water

  Antiguan specialities

  Museums and galleries

  Hikes

  Entertainment and nightlife

  Great views

  Barbuda

  Places

  St John's

  The northwest coast

  The Atlantic coast

  Falmouth and English Harbour

  The west coast

  Barbuda and Redonda

  Essentials

  Arrival

  Island transport

  Information and maps

  Money and costs

  Communications and the media

  Accommodation

  Food and drink

  Ocean and beach safety

  Sport and outdoor activities

  Crime and personal safety

  Travelling with children

  Festivals and holidays

  Directory

  Small print

  A Rough Guide to Rough Guides

  Rough Guide Credits

  Help us update

  The authors

  Acknowledgements

  Introduction

  Little known just a generation ago, tiny Antigua has established itself as one of the Caribbean's more popular destinations. The island is dotted with superb stretches of white sand, many of which – despite the upswing in tourism and development that has given birth to dozens of excellent restaurants and hotels, and a handful of all-inclusives – remain relatively uncrowded. If you're looking for a place to crash out on a beach for a week or two, you'll find this laid-back, welcoming place hard to beat.

  * * *

  When to visit

  For many visitors, Antigua's leading attraction is its tropical climate: hot and sunny all year round. The weather is at its best from mid-December to mid-April, with rainfall low and the heat tempered by cooling trade winds. Things can get noticeably hotter during the summer and, particularly in September and October, the humidity can become oppressive. September is also the most threatening month of the annual hurricane season, which runs officially from June 1 to October 31.

  * * *

  The best of the beaches can be found at Dickenson Bay in the northwest, Half Moon Bay in the east and Rendezvous Bay in the south. Of these, only Dickenson Bay (along with its neighbour, Runaway Bay) are part of a major tourist strip; the others – as well as several more just like them – are much less built up than similarly idyllic spots in the Caribbean. The waters off the north coast are also a prime spot for spray-soaked watersports, with excellent scuba diving and snorkelling opportunities in the fabulous offshore reefs.

  Before Europeans began colonizing the West Indies, Antigua was populated by Arawak-speaking Amerindians. Sighted by Columbus in 1493, the island was left to its own devices until the early sixteenth century, when British settlers arrived, bringing with them African slaves to clear the native vegetation and plant sugarcane. For centuries, the island was little more than a giant sugar factory, producing sugar and rum to send home to an increasingly sweet-toothed mother country. Around Antigua, the tall brick chimneys of a hundred deserted and decaying sugar mills, as well as the ruins of military forts and signal stations, bear witness to that long colonial era.

  These relics make for worthy and atmospheric diversions if you can drag yourself away from your patch of sand. The superbly restored naval dockyard and the crumbling forts around English Harbour and Shirley Heights are as impressive as any historic site in the West Indies. There are lots of other little nuggets to explore too, including the capital, St John's, with its colourful, lively quayside, and the odd old-fashioned settlement like Parham or Old Road that progress seems to have bypassed. And if you're prepared to do a bit of walking, you'll find some superb hikes that will take you out to completely isolated parts of the island. As for nightlife, things are generally pretty quiet, though a good crop of restaurants – look out for those serving fresh West Indian cooking, especially seafood – do double duty as bars and dance clubs.

  Meanwhile, Antigua's sister island Barbuda feels a world apart from its larger, more-developed neighbour, even though it's just fifteen minutes away by plane. With its spectacular, largely deserted beaches and pristine coral reefs, it may come as some surprise that tourism here is as low-key as it is – which is all the more reason to visit.

  Antigua at a glance

  St John's

  Tucked into an inlet on the northwest coast, St John's most likely won't be why you come to Antigua, but to miss out on the city's great restaurants, entertaining commercial quays and vibrant daily life would be a shame. Be sure also to check out the cathedral, the cricket ground and the national museum.

  The northwest coast

  Just north of St John's, Antigua's northwest coast holds two well-manicured tourist areas: quiet Runaway Bay and more-developed Dickenson Bay. Both offer lovely beaches, shelving gently down into turquoise waters – visit Runaway for relaxed swimming, and Dickenson for fun watersports.

  The Atlantic coast

  The underdeveloped Atlantic coast is Antigua at its most wild and natural state: deserted islands, abandoned sugar plantations and a lengthy stretch of rough, but incredibly scenic, coastline are all big draws for those willing to explore off the beaten track.

  Falmouth and English Harbour

  Though not much for good beaches, Falmouth and English Harbour contain most of the island's top sights. The nicely restored Nelson's Dockyard is a clear window to Antigua's colonial past, while the barbecue parties on Shirley Heights keep things jumping.

  The west coast

  Antigua's west coast is the island's major tourist area. Highlights include Darkwood Beach, great for snorkelling and beachcombing; the massive Jolly Harbour resort and entertainment complex; and a hike up 400-metre Boggy Peak, the island's highest point.

  Barbuda
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  Forty-eight kilometres north of Antigua, the island of Barbuda is perfect for those seeking unspoilt nature. It's likely you won't see a soul lounging with you on the beaches, scuba diving the coral reefs or viewing the colony of frigate birds.

  Redonda

  Near-impossible to reach, Redonda is a small chunk of volcanic rock populated only by goats and seabirds. Still, the story of how it came to be claimed as an independent kingdom is delightfully weird.

  Ideas

  The big six

  Beaches

  Restaurants

  Colonial forts

  On the water

  Antiguan specialities

  Museums and galleries

  Hikes

  Entertainment and nightlife

  Great views

  Barbuda

  The big six

  There are a handful of places on Antigua that will give you a fully rounded picture of the country's rich colonial history – in essence the best of what's worth seeing beyond the countless beaches. A comprehensive tour takes you all around the island, from the capital city to the ruins around Falmouth and English Harbour to the rolling countryside along the island's Atlantic coast. To complete your impression, it's worth hanging around for either of the two main festivals that help define the nation in the eyes of the world.

  Nelson's Dockyard

  Nelson called Antigua "this infernal hole", but his name has been borrowed for this beautifully restored and quite unmissable Georgian dockyard.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Shirley Heights

  A visit to the Heights offers the chance not only to explore military history but also to get some wonderful views and, on Sunday, to party at The Lookout.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  St John's Cathedral

  Viewed from the ocean, the Baroque twin towers dominate the skyline of the capital, earning its reputation as the most imposing of all West Indian cathedrals.

  See ST JOHN'S

  Carnival

  Beginning in late July, Antigua – St John's especially – is consumed by Carnival, which sees a week and a half of non stop music and dance, culminating in a spectacular costume parade.

  See ST JOHN'S

  Sailing Week

  One of the world's premier sailing events, attracting mariners from across the globe – but you don't have to be a yachtie to enjoy the party.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Betty's Hope

  The island's most prominent sugar plantation for more than two hundred years and now the only working sugar mill in the Caribbean.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Beaches

  Most visitors to Antigua head straight for the beach and, as a result, the most popular ones can get especially packed out. While the west and northwest coasts see calmer seas, the winds and frequent swells on the Atlantic coast make for great bodysurfing, windsurfing and, for the really energetic, kiteboarding. Several strips also have great options for lunch on the beach, notably the superb west-coast stretch that takes in Darkwood Beach, Crabbe Hill Beach and Turner's Beach.

  Dickenson Bay

  A beautiful half-mile stretch of white powder sand and calm waters offering a fine choice of hotels, restaurants and watersports.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Darkwood Beach

  A wonderfully quiet stretch on the west coast, featuring views across to Montserrat and, in nearby OJs, probably Antigua's best beach bar.

  See THE WEST COAST

  Green Island

  Take a boat ride out from Harmony Hall and find your very own strip of sand on this peaceful and uninhabited island.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Pigeon Beach

  The best beach in the area around Falmouth and English Harbour, especially good for snorkelling and simply kicking back with a book.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Rendezvous Bay

  One of the most remote beaches on the island, but well worth hiking in for the fine white sand, the calm waters and the solitude.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Half Moon Bay

  This beautiful crescent bay must be a contender for one of the best beaches in the Caribbean, if not the world.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Restaurants

  Antigua has a growing selection of top-quality restaurants, showcasing great chefs and cuisine from around the world, as well as superb local ingredients, particularly those freshly pulled from the ocean. Most of the classy places are away from the big hotels and all-inclusives, but it's well worth getting out to them. You can also enjoy great food at local spots like Hemingway's and George in St John's, and Caribbean Taste and Jackee's Kwik Stop around Falmouth and English Harbour.

  Coconut Grove

  Romantic open-air thatched restaurant on the water's edge at the Siboney Beach Club, known for its sensational seafood.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Bay House

  A lovely terrace location high in the hills above Dickenson Bay, with dependably excellent food and service.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Julian's Alfresco

  Runaway Bay is a quiet part of the island, but worth visiting for Julian Waterer's outstanding cuisine served in a delightful beachside garden.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Sheer

  With a magnificent cliff-top location and a menu of Asian/South American fusion, this Cocobay Resort restaurant compares with anything you'll find in New York or London.

  See THE WEST COAST

  Home

  Chef Carl Thomas's childhood home on the outskirts of St John's, where he and his German wife Rita now serve first-rate West Indian food.

  See ST JOHN'S

  Harmony Hall

  The perfect spot for a long Italian lunch, perhaps taking a couple of hours' beach break on nearby Green Island before dessert and coffee.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Colonial forts

  The British, who ruled Antigua for over three centuries, left behind numerous military fortifications. Many were first built when the British and French navies were contesting the islands of the Caribbean in the 1660s and several were enlarged or strengthened during the Napoleonic wars. They must have been an effective deterrent since they never saw any further action, instead becoming signal stations, reporting on the movement of ships in the vicinity. Most are now pretty dilapidated, though they all still command great views.

  Fort James

  Just north of St John's, Fort James is one of the island's best-preserved military installations. It's also right near the popular Fort Bay beach.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Great Fort George

  Extensive ruins high in the hills above Falmouth and English Harbour; you'll only make it up here on foot or by four-wheel-drive.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Fort Berkeley

  Atmospheric ruins at the mouth of English Harbour, just a short stroll from Nelson's Dockyard.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Dow's Hill Fort

  These rather limited ruins are in a superb location high above English Harbour, with a small multimedia museum nearby that neatly summarizes the island's history.

  See FALMOUTH AND ENGLISH HARBOUR

  Corbison Point

  A tiny bit of eighteenth-century military history on the spit of land between Dickenson Bay and Runaway Bay.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  On the water

  The waters around Antigua are invariably clean, crystal-clear and warm; besides lapping around in them, you'll find them well suited for a wide variety of watersports. Just offshore, you can choose to cruise, sail, kayak, snorkel, bodysurf, windsurf, kiteboard, waterski, jetski or swim with dolphins and stingrays. Further out, you could try some deep-sea sport fishing, going after wahoo, tuna, marlin and other sailfish. Underwater, there are some spectacu
lar dive sites, with coral canyons, caves, walls and shipwrecks, home to all kinds of tropical fish and other marine creatures.

  Boating with Wadadli Cats

  Catamaran cruises are a great way to explore the island, snorkel some of the offshore reefs or simply relax with a rum punch.

  See ESSENTIALS

  Windsurfing on Dickenson Bay

  One of the busiest strips of beach on the island, but the wind and waters are perfect for windsurfers, whether you're experienced or just starting out.

  See THE NORTHWEST COAST

  Sailing with Sunsail Club Colonna

  Sunsail has the best equipment and the best location for dinghy sailing – particularly good for getting kids out on the water.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Kiteboarding at Jabberwock Beach

  Try this spectacular new sport if you dare: KiteAntigua has introduced it to a windswept beach on the island's Atlantic coast.

  See THE ATLANTIC COAST

  Kayaking eco-tours

  Explore the island's hidden reefs, inlets and mangrove swamps by kayak with Eli Fuller's Adventure Antigua or "Paddles" Kayak & Snorkel Club.

  See ESSENTIALS

  Antiguan specialities

  You can find well-prepared versions of most of the big international cuisines on Antigua, but make sure you also try some of the local specialities. Fresh seafood and exotic fruit and vegetables are in abundance, and it's worth tasting them cooked up in traditional West Indian style. Look out, too, for the national fruit, the succulently sweet Antiguan black pineapple, as well as delicious local dishes like ducana, fungi, souse and a variety of curries. For drinking, local beer and rum-based cocktails are the best options.

  Rum

  Antiguan rums include the English Harbour and Cavalier brands; the best place to pick up a bottle is in any of the beautiful old Long Street liquor stores.

  See ST JOHN'S

  Wadadli beer

  The Carib Indians called the island Wadadli, now the name of the local brew.